AGAIN F@$ck

335dM · 11-06-2016, 08:49 AM

So after getting my car back after 2 months because of cbu and overheating!
New head
New turbos
New I/c
New radiator
New t/s
New scr
New nox sensor

Now low end boost gone
Ses reduced power
And still overheating when I'm stopped ( 97-101 degree celsius)

CvilleBill · 11-06-2016, 09:02 AM

Maybe you'll get a long block this time!

Nadir Point · 11-06-2016, 10:54 AM

I'd settle for the short block.

smass · 11-06-2016, 12:16 PM

Is your fan running? Perhaps it was not plugged back in after they replaced the radiator.

335dM · 11-06-2016, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smassey321

Is your fan running? Perhaps it was not plugged back in after they replaced the radiator.

It's doing the same as before!
Nothing changed
Coolant temps doesn't stay at 86 as it should be.
When I stop more than 5-6 mins, coolant goes up, I go on the highway, it takes a good 6-7 mins to get the temp down.

glitdi · 11-06-2016, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 335dM

It's doing the same as before!
Nothing changed
Coolant temps doesn't stay at 86 as it should be.
When I stop more than 5-6 mins, coolant goes up, I go on the highway, it takes a good 6-7 mins to get the temp down.

How is the water pump?
with a new rad and the fan verified working the water pump is a prime suspect.
Most german water pumps use plastic impellers and after time they can break and disintegrate. General symptoms of this are exactly what you describe, hot at a stop, get moving and the temp drops down again.

Owen81 · 11-06-2016, 03:16 PM

Its normal for the coolant to fluctuate. How hot is it getting when idling?

335dM · 11-06-2016, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Owen81

Its normal for the coolant to fluctuate. How hot is it getting when idling?

97-101

glitdi · 11-06-2016, 03:18 PM

as far as low boost goes I would be diving into the vacuum lines and the boost controler itself, if you have some sort of scan program, go for a drive and see requested boost vs actual boost. I think you need a new dealership... If they took the time to actually do a proper diagnosis instead of throwing parts at the problem you would have a good car and far less complaints.

335dM · 11-06-2016, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glitdi

as far as low boost goes I would be diving into the vacuum lines and the boost controler itself, if you have some sort of scan program, go for a drive and see requested boost vs actual boost. I think you need a new dealership... If they took the time to actually do a proper diagnosis instead of throwing parts at the problem you would have a good car and far less complaints.

I'm still under warranty
Dropping my car to the dealer tomorrow morning
???

335dsleeper · 11-06-2016, 03:56 PM

^ sounds like you need to have a long talk with the shop foreman.

Mik325tds · 11-06-2016, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 335dM

97-101

Those temps are actually normal. I think it is doing this in order to keep the temps in the DOC up to keep it working.
Turn on your AC and see if it goes down to 83 then. That's at least what my car does.
This may just be the reason why they didn't provide a water temp display. With the electronic thermostat they can now control the water temp and move it when it is needed.

Edit: Nonsense. The thermostat in this car is not electronically controlled as @335dwanted points out below. My apologies. However, I have read many posts where people were concerned that the cooling fan comes on around 100°C. So maybe all of our thermostats are bad?

Persian Whisperjet · 11-06-2016, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

This may just be the reason why they didn't provide a water temp display. With the electronic thermostat they can now control the water temp and move it when it is needed.

That is the best explanation yet I have seen.

335dwanted · 11-06-2016, 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

Those temps are actually normal. I think it is doing this in order to keep the temps in the DOC up to keep it working.
Turn on your AC and see if it goes down to 83 then. That's at least what my car does.
This may just be the reason why they didn't provide a water temp display. With the electronic thermostat they can now control the water temp and move it when it is needed.

My car never hits 212*F with the occasional exception of DPF regen. High 190s, sometimes getting low 200s during normal driving and I have never noticed the coolant temp spiking during idle if Torque app is to be believed. I am also unfamiliar with any electronic thermostat. I know the gassers have an electric water pump which I believe actively manages coolant temps but the M57 has conventional water pump and thermostat.

335dM · 11-07-2016, 07:19 AM

............

335dsleeper · 11-07-2016, 07:28 AM

^ you shouldn't be driving your car, especially in traffic. You're going to do further damage. I hope you at least cranked your heat as hot as it'll go to avoid damaging the head/ head gasket.

Puerto Rican 335d · 11-07-2016, 07:34 AM

I concur with 335dsleeper they can try to VOID any warranty by you driving it under that condition, be careful amigo

335dM · 11-07-2016, 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Puerto Rican 335d

I concur with 335dsleeper they can try to VOID any warranty by you driving it under that condition, be careful amigo

I'm on my way to the dealer

Puerto Rican 335d · 11-07-2016, 07:44 AM

oh ok

335dM · 11-07-2016, 07:44 AM

Ses just came in on my way to the dealer this morning.
Ses was cause by the absence of low boost.
Probably a bad vaccum line

JOHNNYBRAVO1 · 11-07-2016, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 335dM

Ses just came in on my way to the dealer this morning.
Ses was cause by the absence of low boost.
Probably a bad vaccum line

I'd blame the injectors, I went threw this.. new injectors and the D woke up

11-06-2016, 08:49 AM	#1
335dM Major 128 Rep 1,362 Posts Drives: 335d m package Join Date: May 2011 Location: montreal iTrader: (0)	AGAIN F@$ck So after getting my car back after 2 months because of cbu and overheating! New head New turbos New I/c New radiator New t/s New scr New nox sensor Now low end boost gone Ses reduced power And still overheating when I'm stopped ( 97-101 degree celsius)
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11-06-2016, 09:02 AM	#2
CvilleBill Private First Class 24 Rep 110 Posts Drives: 2011 335d Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Va iTrader: (0)	Maybe you'll get a long block this time!
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11-06-2016, 10:54 AM	#3
Nadir Point Lieutenant 103 Rep 579 Posts Drives: Diesel Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: CO iTrader: (0)	I'd settle for the short block.
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11-06-2016, 12:16 PM	#4
smass Lieutenant Colonel 396 Rep 1,578 Posts Drives: 06 325i - 10 335i Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Scottsdale, AZ iTrader: (1) Garage List 2010 E90 335i [0.00] 2016 F15 35i [0.00] 2003 E53 3.0 [0.00] 2006 E90 325i [0.00]	Is your fan running? Perhaps it was not plugged back in after they replaced the radiator.
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11-06-2016, 03:16 PM	#7
Owen81 Lieutenant 83 Rep 432 Posts Drives: 335d, 17/22 TDI Join Date: May 2015 Location: Alberta, Canada iTrader: (0)	Its normal for the coolant to fluctuate. How hot is it getting when idling?
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11-06-2016, 03:18 PM	#9
glitdi Rudolf/German/Compression Ignition Specialist. 53 Rep 168 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: West Coast Canada iTrader: (0)	as far as low boost goes I would be diving into the vacuum lines and the boost controler itself, if you have some sort of scan program, go for a drive and see requested boost vs actual boost. I think you need a new dealership... If they took the time to actually do a proper diagnosis instead of throwing parts at the problem you would have a good car and far less complaints. __________________ I fix other people's stupid German problems so I can afford to fix my stupid German problems....
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11-06-2016, 03:56 PM	#11
335dsleeper Banned 389 Rep 1,623 Posts Drives: 09' 335d 10'35D Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Suffolk, va iTrader: (0)	^ sounds like you need to have a long talk with the shop foreman.
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11-07-2016, 07:19 AM	#15
335dM Major 128 Rep 1,362 Posts Drives: 335d m package Join Date: May 2011 Location: montreal iTrader: (0)	Again ............ Attached Images
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11-07-2016, 07:28 AM	#16
335dsleeper Banned 389 Rep 1,623 Posts Drives: 09' 335d 10'35D Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Suffolk, va iTrader: (0)	^ you shouldn't be driving your car, especially in traffic. You're going to do further damage. I hope you at least cranked your heat as hot as it'll go to avoid damaging the head/ head gasket.
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11-07-2016, 07:34 AM	#17
Puerto Rican 335d Brigadier General 229 Rep 3,489 Posts Drives: Montego Blue 335d Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Puerto Rico(Dominican Republic 03/2017) iTrader: (0)	I concur with 335dsleeper they can try to VOID any warranty by you driving it under that condition, be careful amigo __________________ RENNtech Flash(Lenny Wu)/WAGNER IC Enkei Rajin 18"/Execuhitch Hitch/Koni FSD Soft Ride Bike Rack/Brava Synthetic Motor Oil(Made in Puerto Rico)/Meth(in the works)/CBU done w Andrew EGR Race Pipe (whoa! what an animal it is now)
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11-07-2016, 07:44 AM	#19
Puerto Rican 335d Brigadier General 229 Rep 3,489 Posts Drives: Montego Blue 335d Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Puerto Rico(Dominican Republic 03/2017) iTrader: (0)	oh ok __________________ RENNtech Flash(Lenny Wu)/WAGNER IC Enkei Rajin 18"/Execuhitch Hitch/Koni FSD Soft Ride Bike Rack/Brava Synthetic Motor Oil(Made in Puerto Rico)/Meth(in the works)/CBU done w Andrew EGR Race Pipe (whoa! what an animal it is now)
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