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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N57 / M57 Turbo Diesel Discussions - 335d > lowering the 335d



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      11-20-2016, 09:26 AM   #1
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lowering the 335d

So i bought a jom e90 coilover kit for my 335d ( i know isnt the best but to be honest theyre very comfy) only problem i have with it is the rear springs at max height wont get me higher than 33cm from center of wheel to fender (thats about one finger fitting between the tire and fender). at this point the car is eatig up tires even with an alignement. i dont really feel like shelling out 300$+++ on rear camber arms. anyone else have a problem like this and has an easier solution on the wallet?
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      11-20-2016, 10:54 AM   #2
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Are you sure the spring perch is installed correctly?
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      11-20-2016, 11:43 AM   #3
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they are yes. took out the stock one to stick the supplied ones.
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      11-20-2016, 11:46 AM   #4
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the guy provided me these specs for the springs and verified i have the right part # The rear spring is not linear so you can not say the right spring rate.
But i have this for you
Diameter = 13,5mm
Outer diameter = 88mm - 99mm - 88mm
Untensioned spring height = 260mm
Number of coils = 7

the spring length seems very short to me
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      11-20-2016, 11:48 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fork!TheSpoonWrecker View Post
they are yes. took out the stock one to stick the supplied ones.
The supplied one should give you 30-100mm of adjustment. Are you sure it's not inverted?
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      11-20-2016, 11:52 AM   #6
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its on the top like its supposed to be. and its completely dialed to the tip of the adjuster so no im sure.
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      11-20-2016, 11:56 AM   #7
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      11-20-2016, 12:04 PM   #8
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What do the front springs look like?

Your rear springs look short and wide.

Are you certain you didn't put the front springs on the rear? From the looks of the picture online, the shorter springs go on the front struts, longer ones in the rear.

Last edited by 335dsleeper; 11-20-2016 at 12:37 PM..
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      11-20-2016, 12:47 PM   #9
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100% sure its the right springs i confirmed it with the supplier. and the fronts are even shorter with helper springs.
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      11-20-2016, 01:21 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fork!TheSpoonWrecker View Post
100% sure its the right springs i confirmed it with the supplier. and the fronts are even shorter with helper springs.
Well, something's wrong. You shouldn't have to have your perch at its max height in order to drive the car... either you have the wrong parts or they're installed incorrectly.

The rear sings pictured here look a hell of a lot longer than yours.

http://www.venommotorsport.com/produ...nsion/SU22446/
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      11-20-2016, 01:41 PM   #11
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yup thats what i told them too, he says the spring is 7 inches and i remember it to be short but the part # is correct.
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      11-20-2016, 01:55 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fork!TheSpoonWrecker View Post
yup thats what i told them too, he says the spring is 7 inches and i remember it to be short but the part # is correct.
Did you remove the rubber spring perch pad from the control arm?
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      11-20-2016, 03:20 PM   #13
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left it.
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      11-20-2016, 08:54 PM   #14
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hm. i wonder if it's a 335d specific problem.. my ohlins were really low on the back even at max height like yours. front had a lot of room to adjust height.

i ended up getting stiffer swift springs for the rear and that brought the car back to where it was supposed to be. are 335d's rears heavier than normal?
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      11-20-2016, 09:30 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fork!TheSpoonWrecker View Post
left it.
I have the same problem. I haven't brought mine in yet for the alinement, i smoked a set of rear tires in less than 1000mi after installing my coilovers. I was hoping the alinement was going to help... maby not
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      11-20-2016, 11:39 PM   #16
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nope, youll be fucked asmuch as i am . the guy who did my alignement setups race cars for the calabogie track here in ottawa and race cars in the states. he says i need longer springs and have to raise my back end to get rid of some camber or spend on a rear camber kit and yeah rear d's have the urea tank so.
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      11-21-2016, 12:12 PM   #17
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I have a similar issue with KW V3. Rears are way too low even on max setting. Fronts are just fine and have plenty of adjustment either way.
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      11-21-2016, 07:47 PM   #18
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should the alignment specs be any different for the 335d vs. other 3 series? especially if suspension is not oem (ie. ohlins, m3 suspension parts, etc). always wondered what info the alignment shop would need.. or do they just put it to the factory specs at whatever ride height you're at now?

you guys going through rubber quickly too? mine is even wear all the way to the wear bars in the rear.. in just one season. had my alignment done before i put the wheels on too though. but that shouldn't matter much, right?
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      11-21-2016, 08:18 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hobbyshop View Post
should the alignment specs be any different for the 335d vs. other 3 series? especially if suspension is not oem (ie. ohlins, m3 suspension parts, etc). always wondered what info the alignment shop would need.. or do they just put it to the factory specs at whatever ride height you're at now?

you guys going through rubber quickly too? mine is even wear all the way to the wear bars in the rear.. in just one season. had my alignment done before i put the wheels on too though. but that shouldn't matter much, right?
Are you the guy with DZLMOOSE'S car?

I'd check to see if your toe is within spec. You shouldn't be going through new tires in one year.
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      11-21-2016, 08:25 PM   #20
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yup!

yah, i'm going to get it checked. but i got an alignment before i put the wheels on. and the wear is even on both sides.. so no uneven wear like there should be if toe or camber are out of spec.. right?

Quote:
Originally Posted by GreekboyD View Post
Are you the guy with DZLMOOSE'S car?

I'd check to see if your toe is within spec. You shouldn't be going through new tires in one year.
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      11-21-2016, 08:28 PM   #21
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and not sure if it helps enough, but you could squeeze another 1mm or so if you dial it so the ring is off the bottom a bit. my tech did that before i changed to stiffer springs.. and it gave me enough height to not rub even on larger dips. do at your own risk, but the second one is really just to lock it in, so should be ok (according to what the tech told me, and it was okay for me)


Quote:
Originally Posted by Fork!TheSpoonWrecker View Post
its on the top like its supposed to be. and its completely dialed to the tip of the adjuster so no im sure.
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      11-21-2016, 08:37 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hobbyshop View Post
yup!

yah, i'm going to get it checked. but i got an alignment before i put the wheels on. and the wear is even on both sides.. so no uneven wear like there should be if toe or camber are out of spec.. right?
Ya, shouldn't be from camber or toe then. I run -2.0 in the rear without issues. I've seen a bad subframe cause the same issues you're seeing. So would adding suspension components without doing an alignment afterwards.
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