[ASBSECU E93]

Ok - wanted some feedback from those who have replaced their OEM subframe and Diff bushings.

What are your thoughts overall and on the ride quality?

Would you do this again?

What brand did you use?

If you could - Would you have used a different brand?

Additionally - do you have a diff lock down brace?

Same follow-up questions as above.

[Fundguy1]

Ride quality is firmer but comfortable. I use as a daily driver. I use 19s also. Non run flat.

Without a doubt

AKE 95 rated black subframe bushings, generic rear lockdown, kwv2 coils. No nvh

Not really. Maybe different coils. Ohlins?

[GreekboyD]

M3 Rear subframe bushings
Delrin Race differential bushings
Differential lockdown kit (from VWetish)

Adding these in place of the M3 ones next year:

Link

Look at my mod lists. Never cared about NVH so lost track of that ages ago.

[Thecastle]

I did subframe inserts, bug improvemnt, solved my issues including the wiggle.

Downside I hear a lot of diff whine now, under acceleration.

[Yozh]

I've done Turner Aluminum Subframe Bushings and it is by far one of the best mods. Easy to install with proper tools and dry ice trick. Transforms the car dramatically. Minor diff whine on accel. I would not do any other, except the Delrin version of the above. Also have a vwetish diff lockdown kit with still factory bushings.

[BB_cuda]

I'm getting ready to swap out my final drive as an LSD is being put in the spare one I showed you guys earlier. My point of posting today is I was looking into a different diff cover as I see what the 1 series guys have done for reasonable cost. While researching, I was looking at the subtle differences of 335i gasser vs 335d. There is a bracket with a piece of rubber bushing hanging off the back side of sub frame. On one end is the large bolt that goes through the sub frame bushing and goes through a dog bone shaped bracket. On the other end is the rubber bushing. My thought is this is to damp vibration with the rubber at the end.

I've heard you guys speak of some NVH after switching out the diff bushings. My question is do you guys keep this bracket with damper still bolted in? See pictures

The second photo shows this best. The silver nut (in very center of the pic) is where the bolt comes through sub frame. Yes, that is the infamous spare under the floor. The angle of this view is from drivers side at about 45deg angle looking up at back of sub frame.

I would think even if you change to more stiff bush going in the SF that you would still use this damping bracket. It has nothing to do with the stiffness of mount to back of diff. Perhaps there is something going on at the ring gear RPM associated with 2.81 ratio that the gassers don't see with the numerically higher ratios. I will go look at the 2.56 ratio cars that come with DCT transmission to see if this bracket/damper is used there too.

Here is a teaser pic for what I'm thinking of doing for cover on my diff.
EDIT: I rotated the 1st 2 pictures where the sub frame is to the left. It was subframe downward and that made no sense to interpret.

[BB_cuda]

Off line talking with a forum member and I can see I'm not clearly showing what I mean. I have pasted in 2 realoem views side by side and will point to parts on each. First the links for your own perusal.
link to diff that shows the little dog bone bracket (item 5). item 8 (85 mm bolt) is holding damper to the link (not going through subframe)
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=33_1449
link to view for subrame and its chassis mounts and this rear diff bushing (item 14). Note how the bolt that goes through 14 is 112 mm long. This bolt (item 15) goes through the inboard hole on first figure's item 5 before going through second figure's item 14.

Something that the 2nd figure royally messes up though. the head of the long 112 bolt points the opposite way. there is a nut (item 6 in 1st figure) that is on aft side of dog bone link to secure the long 112 mm bolt.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=33_1229.

See all of this together in attachment. So, back to my question, did you guys keep the link on there when you changed the rear diff bushing (item 14 in 2nd fugure). whew!

[BB_cuda]

I had asked if others have this dog bone thing on back side of sub frame where rear bolt of diff comes through.

Back ground: I'm converting to the finned cover I spoke of above. It requires the use of a 15 mm custom spacer and a longer 130 mm bolt to span that extra 15 mm. I had looked in this area before and you saw my pictures. I couldn't see up into the end of the nut as the spare tire was in the way. The realoem listing above shows we have a 112 mm long bolt that goes through both the dog bone's inboard end boss and a nut with washer.

Here is the interesting thing now. The 335i gasser has the same 112 mm bolt (p/n 33306785433) spec'd and doesn't have the dog bone. I measured approx. 10.9-11 mm recess of the bolt's tip relative to the end of the nut. see pictures. Its likely only those of us that no longer urea tanks with their covers will be able to see this area.

A couple of days ago I ordered that 130 mm (M14x1.5x130 grade 10.9) and also got a 140 mm too. From the pics, I'd say there is a strong chance I will be fitting the 140mm if the dog bone goes back on.

So I ask again, those that have changed diff and subframe bushings, did you reinstall the dog bone?

[BB_cuda]

I went to dealer and look at 2 different 335i on the lifts on service area. They both didn't have the dogbone and the bolt stood out from the nut on the order of 3/8-1/2". I described the situation to the service tech and he agreed with me that it should be proud or better out of the nut

[TDIwyse]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

...
So I ask again, those that have changed diff and subframe bushings, did you reinstall the dog bone?

It's been so long since I changed to the Quaife LSD that I do not remember the specifics. But, next time I have the car up on the lift I'll try to remember to take a look.

[BB_cuda]

I got a comparable picture from yozh. I feel it reinforces my concern. Here is a side by side with labels.

[tryingtobebest]

OP:

What are your thoughts overall and on the ride quality? - GREAT, much better then stock!!!
Would you do this again? - For my car - DEFINITELY
What brand did you use? - E90 M3 subframe bushings (PITA to install) and Mfactory Diff solid rubber diff bushings
If you could - Would you have used a different brand? Playing with all kinds of U, S and R series Nissans i came to conclusion that i HATE SOLID Alluminum or Urethane bushings, they are just not dailyworth... SO unless there is other solid/full rubber brands i wouldn't consider anything else!
Additionally - do you have a diff lock down brace? - NO


BB_Cuda, reading your post briefly like 3 times i couldn't figure out what was your question, i went outside in the garage found that piece, laid under the car and make a picture of how my car looks like and been for the past year!


From my original thread HERE


The way things been in the last year or so!


I do want to mention to everyone, that i DO have some kind of weird noise BUT only under certain load/acceleration, it is a winding but quite noise, not speed sensitive but load sensitive, its coming anywhere from 50-80% of throttle and very DULL if you can understand me!
There is few explanation that im calming myself with:
1 It almost sounds like subframe is flexing under certain conditions and making something touch body, ( like if grease nipple that ive installed for greasing swaybar, but thats not it ive checked)
2 I hit both rear wheels last winter (maybe its one of the wheel bearings)
3 When i installed M3 Subframe bushings i damaged like 3 of them when installing because it is PITA (maybe they are touching body)
4 Bad noise will show himself over time, and will be easy to diagnose soon or later...

Maybe in the spring time i should try to rememer and install this "BALANCER" piece back on, but i hate the idea of extra 2lbs just hanging there!)

Hope this helps to someone!


EDIT: Mfactory not 3M, LOL

[BB_cuda]

Thank you tryingtobebest. You answered my question that you didn't put it back on.

His picture under the trunk demonstrates my point. Look how the nut has the bolt just come flush to it's end without the dogbone part on. It is shown on the floor in the foreground of the same view.

I will use either the 130mm or 140 mm. Game time call when I go back together with it.

Meanwhile, Jeg's sent me the wrong aluminum weld bungs. they sent 1/8" NPT and I ordered 1/4" NPT. URGH, 2 more days of waiting now. They are sending free. If anyone can use the 1/8" ones, let me know.

[Yozh]

Cuda,

Here is something interesting. PN 33326770288 for that nut.

[BB_cuda]

Yozh,
That helps lots. Many threads going on inside the interior of the dog bone then. Standing down from the fire drill. I have one of the 0288 part coming to the near by dealer. If he would have had one in stock, I would have learned of this earlier (12/17).
Thank you.