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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > No boost (1 PSI)



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      12-16-2016, 10:29 AM   #1
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No boost (1 PSI)

Hi all,

This last week my car lost all power, the only thing that changed was that I moved and am using different 91 now (Shell vPower). The amount of power lost seemed too much to be related to bad gas, so I got the MHD logger and started logging. I am currently seeing a target boost of roughly 16 psi, and an actual boost value of 1 psi. A few months ago I had the VRSF 5" FMIC installed, which worked fine for a while there. Before I bring my car away I'd like to narrow it down. So far I've seen two answers, either somewhere in the FMIC/chargepipe or a vacuum leak. I opened the hood and looked at the top connectors of the FMIC and the chargepipe to throttle body connection, all of that looked fine. Of course it could be disconnected on the FMIC side. I was wondering, can you determine from the logs if its a vacuum leak? The wgdc number changes but I don't really know what to look at since this is the first log I'm inspecting. What do you guys think? Btw, it does not throw a SES which kind of surprised me.

http://datazap.me/u/aqid/no-boost-s1-v71
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      12-16-2016, 10:42 AM   #2
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Also, it seems like my rail pressure is low compared to others. What do you guys think about that?
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      12-16-2016, 10:54 AM   #3
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dude, get that boost leak test going. it's pretty simple and if you got any leaks you'll hear em. that's my suggestion for your first move. I hope that's the issue cuz thats a quick fix.
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      12-16-2016, 11:27 AM   #4
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Go back and recheck those connections . You might start over spinning those turbos trying to build boost with a massive leak. Also check your vacuum hoses to the vacuum canisters then to the boost solenoid a down to the actuators.
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      12-16-2016, 11:46 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mposter View Post
You might start over spinning those turbos trying to build boost with a massive leak.
Yeah I'm not using the car until I sort this out for that reason.

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Originally Posted by ///Mposter View Post
Also check your vacuum hoses to the vacuum canisters then to the boost solenoid a down to the actuators.
I followed the ones from the vacuum canisters down and those seem to be fine. It's about as far as I can see from the top of the engine bay without taking parts off.

Since the move I don't have a place to work on my car anymore so I'm afraid I'm going to have to bring it to an indy shop. I'll just have them check the intercooling piping first, as that seems to make the most sense to me.
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      12-16-2016, 11:50 AM   #6
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stock dv's?? those things are worth a check, stock cp? maybe cracked.. any extra noise even revving with the hood up you would hear a leak of this magnitude. connections at the ic? if nothing is over obvious looking or sounding, leak test would bête way to go. valve cover gasket possibly..how many miles on the car?

just brainstorming here
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      12-16-2016, 12:00 PM   #7
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Yeah stock dv and cp. From what I can see from the top both of those look fine. I assume that when you loose all boost its not some tiny hole, but more like something is completely disconnected/cracked. Didn't think about revving it with the hood up, I'll do that later. Can only see partial connections at the IC (the top part of the hot side connector really). I have a feeling the problem might lay there as that is the only change in the last 3-4 months (installation of the IC). 95k miles on it btw.
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      12-16-2016, 12:43 PM   #8
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95k, hmmm how long you been tuned for? check those dv's, they are VERY easy to remove and inspect. Like I was sayin, that's a massive leak, youll hear rushing air somewhere im sure of it at a standing rev.
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      12-16-2016, 12:46 PM   #9
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Sounds like a massive boost leak. Remove the underside panel and start checking
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      12-16-2016, 12:52 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Sounds like a massive boost leak. Remove the underside panel and start checking
x2

Either boost leak or bad boost solenoid(s)
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      12-16-2016, 07:00 PM   #11
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Thanks guys! Going to take that tip and see if I can hear it with the hood open. I currently can't take the underside panel off as I don't have the space to do it anymore after the move. I used to go to a DIY garage with a lift, so I don't own a jack or jackstands. But I don't think they have that concept here in Colorado Springs. So I'm going to have to find something else in the meanwhile, maybe bring it away or buy the jackstands and jack. Btw, ran stock + stage 1 for about 10k miles. About 3k since intake/dp/fmic. Installed in that order with about 1k miles in between each.
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Last edited by Aqid; 12-16-2016 at 07:15 PM..
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      12-23-2016, 08:45 AM   #12
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Any luck resolving this?
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      02-03-2017, 12:51 AM   #13
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So I brought the car in to have the FMIC inspected, they said everything looked fine. I read the 30FF thread here on e90post and found that a lot of people were having issues with the vacuum lines that run underneath the engine cover due to heat. A lot of those people also reported an increase in WG rattle, which was something I was having too. So I inspected those hoses, but both of them looked fine and it seemed like someone already changed them since they were cloth wrapped silicone tubes. I then took the hoses of the vacuum canisters to see if I could hear the vacuum, and when I got to the bottom side the right one just tell off. I found some glue at the end of the hose which was weird, so I took the canister off and found that the previous owner/mechanic had glued the vacuum hose to the canister because the nipple had broken off! Ordered a new canister, which I got in today. Clipped the piece with the glue off of the hose, attached it and everything was fine and dandy. Immediately back at full boost. Went from that straight to misfiring though. Was going to order spark plugs and go down the route of spark plugs -> coil packs -> injector. But now I'm thinking of it, maybe its from driving for two months without any boost on the turbos and somehow it adapted to some different values and now I have to reset adaptations?
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      02-03-2017, 08:07 AM   #14
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Just use MHD to reset all adaptations. If that doesn't work, then it's plugs, coils, injectors, O2 sensors
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      02-06-2017, 11:07 AM   #15
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Alright reset all adaptations and changed the spark plugs, still misfiring on #4. Ordered a new coil, will install that on Tuesday. I noticed it doesn't misfire in 1st and 2nd gear, only in 3rd gear above I'd say 50% throttle position.
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      02-06-2017, 11:20 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aqid View Post
Alright reset all adaptations and changed the spark plugs, still misfiring on #4. Ordered a new coil, will install that on Tuesday. I noticed it doesn't misfire in 1st and 2nd gear, only in 3rd gear above I'd say 50% throttle position.
More load and heat in upper gears.
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      02-08-2017, 12:42 PM   #17
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Yep, after replacing sparks + coils the misfire is gone. Car pulls strong again! I think my problems are solved. Yaay. It's been two months since I've had full power, forgot how fast this car is!

3rd gear pull:
http://datazap.me/u/aqid/mhd-stage-2...-9-10-11-14-22
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      02-08-2017, 05:20 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aqid View Post
Yep, after replacing sparks + coils the misfire is gone. Car pulls strong again! I think my problems are solved. Yaay. It's been two months since I've had full power, forgot how fast this car is!

3rd gear pull:
http://datazap.me/u/aqid/mhd-stage-2...-9-10-11-14-22
Good Obviously improved, wont be surprised if you get a 30ff
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      02-09-2017, 04:12 PM   #19
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Do you think that because its spooling too slow? (2k rpm to at 3.1k rpm before full boost)
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