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      04-12-2017, 05:14 PM   #1
Banana Clipper
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Waterbox Burnout Help?

So I frequent Sonoma and on occasion make the trip up to Sacramento for some 1/4 mile runs. Lately I've been trying my hand and doing burn outs in the waterbox with nothing but bad results and frustration.

When I get the rear tires in the waterbox I press the brakes, manually put the car in 1st, DSC off, floor it and the rpms build and tires spin but as soon as the rpms hit 4k all power is cut and thats it. Even if I keep my foot down there is no power.

I have LSD, ediff coded out, FLR off, RAB off, and FBS disabled. Is there some other parameter I need to code out to do a good burnout?

If I dont press the brakes too hard I can get a decent burn out but the car moves forward before I want it to and thus is a waste of tire and time.

Any advice?
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      04-17-2017, 12:36 PM   #2
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Nevermind, figured it out





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      04-19-2017, 03:33 AM   #3
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How?
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      04-20-2017, 11:39 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy198712 View Post
How?
Its a balance between brake and gas. Basically just give it enough brake for the car to stop, dont floor the brake pedal, but floor the gas pedal. Steps I take below

- Shift car in to M1
- Roll into waterbox
- Stop car
- Release pressure on brake to a point the car is just barely being held back, my brakes kinda 'creak and moan' when theyre on the verge of letting go
- Floor the gas pedal
- Let the car redline and it SHOULD shift on its own from M1 to M2
- Monitor and hold rpms around 4k in M2
- Once it feels like tires are not spinning freely any more or are slowing down their spin SLOWLY let off gas and brake to have a CONTROLLED roll out of the water box and stage your car

That last step is important.

If you just let off the gas the car will shake violently because your tires are now REALLY hot and sticky and they, well, stick and stop rather violently. Rolling out of the water box helps prevent this. Another thing I noticed too is that when you do being to roll out the tires will spin much easier because you're now moving into 'cooler' portion of the track that is not as stick, just keep the car straight and under control and you'll be fine.

IF your car doesnt shift at redline, I'm talking about 1 second or less, get out of the gas pedal. My car hits redline and shifts IMMEDIATELY. There is no reason to keep bouncing the limiter off 7k+ rpms. I have had this happen once or twice and Im not sure why it happens but I value my engine just a little more than my 60' times.

This has dramatically improved my 60' times and I even nailed a 1.551 60' on an all season street tire although I havent been able to replicate anything even close since and the ET on that run tells me it may have been a 'false' 60's or something weird with the track on that run.
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