[chriscpmtmp]

Something happened to my suspension recently. It really bounces on the freeway and makes a weird notice when the suspension compresses while pulling out of the driveway. I'm pretty sure it is the right front strut assembly.

My buddy is a Ford engineer. He pointed out that a diesel weights more than a gas engine. Is is possible the suspension is not enough for this "d"? One online store listed the same part for the gas and diesel versions.

The service guy at the dealer said the struts rarely fail. I don't drive hard normally, but I was clipping down some country roads that got bumpy. No big hits, but some rough patches for sure. I'd tend to doubt that would do it, but who knows. Also, I did swap out from the factory 17s to 18 inch sporty OEM wheels.

I started reading all the stick notes and have a bad feeling about this car now. I was planning on keeping it for 3-4 more years.

The dealer won;t even quote a price, but a highly rated local shop said $1,200. Ouch!

Any comments?

[BB_cuda]

$1200 for all 4 and what specific ones? I'm pricing rear ones but converting to M3 type as I'm going to M3 lower camber arms. There is another sister forum that talks E9X suspension, chassis, and brakes. Here is the link. Those guys are real good over there.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=38

[kbsilver]

At 75K miles while my struts were not worn out, I did not like the bouncy bouncy from the rear, since the car was new. Went with Bilstein B6's all around. Definitely stopped the bounce, very firmly planted. But is a stiffer ride that stock. Only time it becomes annoying is if you are on a choppy road (lots of small bumps), as that get's transmitted pretty well. I would do it again. An independent shop charged my $550 labor to change all 4, plus an alignment. Parts of course is extra.

[chriscpmtmp]

Thanks. That was for the front 2 with labor and parts.

I guess the diesel is only 5 KG heavier, so that is not an issue.

I'll check the other forum too.

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

$1200 for all 4 and what specific ones? I'm pricing rear ones but converting to M3 type as I'm going to M3 lower camber arms. There is another sister forum that talks E9X suspension, chassis, and brakes. Here is the link. Those guys are real good over there.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=38

[chriscpmtmp]

Thanks. It is definitely only one side in the front for now. I'm not a fan of a stiff suspension, so I'll stick with stock. I guess the mileage is not that low if your happened at 75k.

Originally Posted by kbsilver

At 75K miles while my struts were not worn out, I did not like the bouncy bouncy from the rear, since the car was new. Went with Bilstein B6's all around. Definitely stopped the bounce, very firmly planted. But is a stiffer ride that stock. Only time it becomes annoying is if you are on a choppy road (lots of small bumps), as that get's transmitted pretty well. I would do it again. An independent shop charged my $550 labor to change all 4, plus an alignment. Parts of course is extra.

[lnxguy]

Bilstein B4s. Perfect replacement strut.

$180 for the fronts, $112 for the rears @ Summit Raciing.

[Miko226]

Originally Posted by lnxguy

Bilstein B4s. Perfect replacement strut.

$180 for the fronts, $112 for the rears @ Summit Raciing.

+1

This seems to be more common to fail on the diesels earlier than the gas version 335's IMO. Mine started failing around 70k replaces with Billstein B4 and its like factory again. Great ride quality.

[bimmerdiesel]

I replaced mine around 80k. I was having issues since 65k but my stupidity it took me a long time to get them replaced. I went to a local Indy(LukeG) in Chicago. He suggested replace all four instead of just front 2. He charged half of what you are quoting with OEM parts. If you can drive to Chicago I would strongly suggest Luke. If interested pm me. I ll check how much I exactly spent.

[juld0zer]

BMW tailors its dampers and springs to match the chassis and drivetrain weight.

An E93 has different dampers and springs vs a E90 320i for example.

[rulonger]

Originally Posted by chriscpmtmp

Thanks. It is definitely only one side in the front for now. I'm not a fan of a stiff suspension, so I'll stick with stock. I guess the mileage is not that low if your happened at 75k.

I have the passenger side factory strut (SACHS) with around 20 K miles on it. The right front suspension was replaced after I hit a pothole; I removed recently when I went the Bilstein B12 route.

If you want the slightly used right front strut, just pay shipping and it is yours.

[kbsilver]

As others have said the Bilstein B4's are a very good durable replacements for the OEM Sachs. Will be a little stiffer because they are new, but are essentially the same ride. One advantage of the B6's which are stiffer is I have not bent a rim since I put them on. With the OEM shocks I bent 5 rims in one winter season.

[Mark M]

Originally Posted by kbsilver

As others have said the Bilstein B4's are a very good durable replacements for the OEM Sachs. Will be a little stiffer because they are new, but are essentially the same ride. One advantage of the B6's which are stiffer is I have not bent a rim since I put them on. With the OEM shocks I bent 5 rims in one winter season.

Understand the op is seeking comfort. However for those with sport suspensions that want to increase performance about 15 or 20 percent and not affect ride height, I've been running the Bilstein B8 for over 5k miles on stock sport springs. I'm impressed as they have tightened up the chassis and delivered a nice sporting feel without compromising comfort.

[BB_cuda]

Over on suspension forum, there has been heated conversations as to whether B6 or B8 is proper match to OEM sport springs. I recall in the end that B6 was correct choice as B8 is a shorter body. Pls don't shoot messenger.

[chriscpmtmp]

So it sounds like they will all go bad over the next 20-30k miles? Maybe I should do all 4 using aftermarket parts. I'm a bit concerned, since it seems that every aftermarket part I've but on a BMW has failed early. No experience with the suspension though. But enough examples - cupholder, light bulb, engine sensors, wheels. But then the factory strut failed too. So who knows.

My wife liked my car, so we picked up a 328i for her - same year 2011. More miles. I wonder in that one will have suspension issues too?

[chriscpmtmp]

Wow. What a nice offer. This might be a quick fix. Let me see if I can find someone to put it on. Thanks. Chris

Originally Posted by rulonger

I have the passenger side factory strut (SACHS) with around 20 K miles on it. The right front suspension was replaced after I hit a pothole; I removed recently when I went the Bilstein B12 route.

If you want the slightly used right front strut, just pay shipping and it is yours.

[Mark M]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Over on suspension forum, there has been heated conversations as to whether B6 or B8 is proper match to OEM sport springs. I recall in the end that B6 was correct choice as B8 is a shorter body. Pls don't shoot messenger.

Yup I had the same concern. I called Bilstein before ordering and their tech line confirmed B8s were the appropriate match for the OE sport setup on the e90.

[rulonger]

Originally Posted by chriscpmtmp

Wow. What a nice offer. This might be a quick fix. Let me see if I can find someone to put it on. Thanks. Chris

Just saw the picture and it looks like the black 335d is of the sport variety (per the 193M wheels). If so, my offer is moot because the used strut I have is from the non-sport suspension. I will post the part number later tonight.

[chriscpmtmp]

It is a non-sport. I like the wheels, so I bough those for my summer setup. The I use the stock for the winter setup.

Originally Posted by rulonger

Just saw the picture and it looks like the black 335d is of the sport variety (per the 193M wheels). If so, my offer is moot because the used strut I have is from the non-sport suspension. I will post the part number later tonight.

[kbsilver]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Over on suspension forum, there has been heated conversations as to whether B6 or B8 is proper match to OEM sport springs. I recall in the end that B6 was correct choice as B8 is a shorter body. Pls don't shoot messenger.

That's sort of my understanding which is B6 and B8, which are monotube shocks, have similar valving. Difference is B6 is for standard suspension, and B8 is shorter in length for shorter OEM sport suspension springs (and about 15% stiffer than the B6).

I currently have 92K miles on my standard suspension 335D. Other than changing the shocks (B6) everything is still original (including the brake pads). Still rides tight.

[rulonger]

Originally Posted by chriscpmtmp

It is a non-sport. I like the wheels, so I bough those for my summer setup. The I use the stock for the winter setup.

OK, so let me know if you need the strut. Offer stands.

[Hoooper]

Originally Posted by kbsilver

That's sort of my understanding which is B6 and B8, which are monotube shocks, have similar valving. Difference is B6 is for standard suspension, and B8 is shorter in length for shorter OEM sport suspension springs (and about 15% stiffer than the B6).

I currently have 92K miles on my standard suspension 335D. Other than changing the shocks (B6) everything is still original (including the brake pads). Still rides tight.

B8 is for cars on lowering springs and b6 is for sport suspension, at least according to the bilstein website. The fact that there's even a debate about it kind of suggests that both work fine

[Thecastle]

Ill throw a comment in. You've probably got bad bushings at the very least and possibly bad struts/shocks. Of course their ware rate entirely depends on your road conditions. The worse the roads the faster the suspension wears out. I generally find the shocks/struts and bushings are done at 80K +/- 20K depending on roads. Most of the rear bounce you feel is because of the soft upper strut mounts and very soft rear subframe bushings, mine had become noticeably soft at 35K miles. I ended up installing poly inserts which made a big difference and replaced the upper strut mount bushings (cheap easy diy like $35 cheap). Of course you can compensate to an extent for soft bushings by putting in firmer dampers, but it comes with a real downside, more nvh and worse ride for the benefit of less "bounce and float"

I replaced my stock struts/shocks with Koni FSD dampers and couldn't be happier with the result. I did the install myself, and replaced the strut bearings, bump stops, shock mounts, etc while doing the job. Would recommend good spring compressors or taking it to a shop to compress the springs. I have a thread on how to diy tips. FYI I have a 2011 335D with the sports package riding on the stock 18" staggered rims and Michelin pilot super sports.

I've been very pleased with the setup it eliminates nearly all the bounce people don't like because of their somewhat underdamped nature, while significantly improving the ride quality over harsh impacts. Small sharp bumps to not bother the Koni FSD's, and you experience less roll in transitions. there isn't the compromise the bilstiens have on hurting ride quality. The rear bounce is really becasue of soft rear subframe bushings to reduce nvh, especially from our rough running diesels. Putting in poly makes the idle a lot rougher and louder.

If I had to do it over again, I would probably go with Ohlins. The bilistiens's are just simply stiffer, so sharp impacts will be worse, but slow transitions (cornering, "bounce")will be better. So its a compromise.