[335stoner]

Can I ohm them out without removing the intake? Im pretty sure it is my module given when it will come on but I would like to check if I can real quick..

I have been getting a p0675 only when a Regen is close by or just finished.. the first time is came on was a few miles after starting in the morning as a Regen was just starting.. the second time was after 20 miles of driving and a Regen was going.. I think it might be the controller because two or three other times it was on as soon as I started the car after a long drive.. car starts and runs just fine my coolant temps are always around 185f (low?)... It will turn off on it's own.

My initial game plan is thermostat and see if I can fix the box or replace it

90k, stock, jbd, xhp

Thoughts?

[Hoooper]

I doubt it unless you have a good combination of flexible hands and lots of mirrors and lights. The glow plugs, module, and all the wiring are way underneath the intake with really no way to access them without removing the intake.

Also, at 185F normal temp it sounds like your thermostat is pretty much fine. The thermostat temp is 188 and normal running temp hovers around 187-190F

[montr]

When I got a glow plug code (like your code), I only replaced the glow plug controller to fix the problem. The glow plugs were fine. The DDE codes points incorrectly to a glow plug problem when the controller is defective.

My thermostat temp was also fine. I guess that your problem is the DDE controller, not the glow plugs.

If you remove the intake, you will easier access to the glow plug controller.

[335stoner]

i honestly figured that i would not be able to get to the glow plugs, but figured i would ask. from what i have read i can get to the controller its tight, but doable. i will take the controller out (hopefully the car will let me still drive it without limp mode) and try resoldering the common area that breaks inside… if it works then I saved $70-$100 if not then I have to buy a part I was already going to buy…..

[Hoooper]

Having just done the glow plug controller last weekend, I cant imagine getting it out without the intake off. It was tough enough with the intake off. I would guess by leaving the intake on you will spend 3 hours fighting with it to save yourself the 1.5 hours max to remove and reinstall the intake. The hard part wont be getting to the nuts that hold it on, but rather unclipping and removing the connectors then reconnecting on the way back in.

[montr]

Originally Posted by 335stoner

i honestly figured that i would not be able to get to the glow plugs, but figured i would ask. from what i have read i can get to the controller its tight, but doable. i will take the controller out (hopefully the car will let me still drive it without limp mode) and try resoldering the common area that breaks inside… if it works then I saved $70-$100 if not then I have to buy a part I was already going to buy…..

If I remember correctly, glow plug controller is sealed. I do not think you will be able to get inside without destroying it.

[335stoner]

Thanks for the heads up hoooper!

Montr you are correct it is sealed. The process involves cutting the case with a Dremel tool to get inside.. you replace a few wires and resoldering then reattach the lid..

[Yozh]

I did my glow plug controller without removing the manifold. Mine is a 2011 so I do not have an extra coolant line to the aux pump. It was actually not difficult. Used screwdrivers to pop the connectors and flipped and turned the controller to get it out in between all the stuff.

I have to opened my old controller. It's potted and you will unlikely be able to resolder. It's the grounding points most likely that get weak inside and loose contacts.

[robnitro]

Maybe you can try a reflow. Back with the xbox360 failures, some people used a heat gun or the oven to hear up the board to where the solder started to become shiny- soft to reball the cpu/gpu which had issues due to rohs lead free solder.

They had wrapped the capacitors and plastic pieces with foil/masking tape but I don't see any caps here..

[335stoner]

if im not mistaken most of the issues are in the top right of the pic or where that round looking connector goes.

I know the potting will be a PITA to get off. the handful of write ups I saw it took sometime and they were using tweezers... ill take it to work and getting the potting off will be not be a problem. I have access to some good equipment, chemicals and solder

I will take a look at the situation and see how the job can be done.. I use to be a mechanic, so feeling something and not seeing it is not something im new to thanks to the good old transverse V6 mini vans lol

[BB_cuda]

I've been successful with a dremel and a very fine needle type bit at getting through potting on boards. You have to know exactly what is where under the potting though. I had that benefit as i had another board laying right beside it that hadn't been potted yet. I was working for the manufacturer of the board so I pulled unused one out of stock for reference.

[Yozh]

Electrical engineers at my place said it would be grounding issues.