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      08-09-2008, 09:39 AM   #1
M3Mikey
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Racing: how to get going the fastest?

Hi guys I have a question. I raced a neon the other day and when I launched it the rpms just dropped then slowly picked up again... I later found out I forgot to turn off traction control. This leads to my question of which is the best way to get the M3 going to top speeds the quickest? When racing I always have M mode on. Now the question is, is it faster to just start normal? Or is it faster to launch it (traction control off? ) burn the tires a little and shoot off?
Should you launch if you think the car is going to beat you?

By the way, I am not racing in neighborhoods or streets and I am not putting any civilians in danger.
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      08-09-2008, 09:58 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3Mikey View Post
Hi guys I have a question. I raced a neon the other day and when I launched it the rpms just dropped then slowly picked up again... I later found out I forgot to turn off traction control. This leads to my question of which is the best way to get the M3 going to top speeds the quickest? When racing I always have M mode on. Now the question is, is it faster to just start normal? Or is it faster to launch it (traction control off? ) burn the tires a little and shoot off?
Should you launch if you think the car is going to beat you?

By the way, I am not racing in neighborhoods or streets and I am not putting any civilians in danger.
As far as DCT goes, you have to disable DSC for Launch Cotnrol which means lots of wheel spin. I would think the best launching RPM would be around ~4k RPM and it will have some wheel spin. Go try with different mode ( MDM, DSC OFF) then find out which is the fastest.

Also, why would you race a Neon....?
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      08-09-2008, 10:00 AM   #3
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lol just for fun, he put a shit ton of money under the hood... wait fuck it your right, why would I race a neon. lol. also what does DCT and DSC stand for?
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      08-09-2008, 11:05 AM   #4
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I raced the 1/8 mile and got wheel spin with DSC off, 4k the spin was too much, I found the best way is to launch from 1500, that's how I got my best time, or just floor it from 0. It's not like my old m3 e46, this one has too much wheel spin at 4k.
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      08-09-2008, 11:43 AM   #5
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[QUOTE
Should you launch if you think the car is going to beat you?

By the way, I am not racing in neighborhoods or streets and I am not putting any civilians in danger.[/QUOTE]

no you shouldn't race them
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      08-09-2008, 11:47 AM   #6
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Well, you're going to want the RPMs to be in a torquey range after you finally connect rubber to the road. The RPMs will drop somewhat significantly as you try to gain traction. In my limited experience, the launch control for the DCT transmissions allows the car to get down in the mid 3000rpm range before finally hooking up right around the sweet spot (4000-4500rpm).
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      08-09-2008, 12:26 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3Mikey View Post
lol just for fun, he put a shit ton of money under the hood... wait fuck it your right, why would I race a neon. lol. also what does DCT and DSC stand for?
DCT- Dual Clutch Transmission
DSC- Dynamic Stability Control

IMO I would program the traction control to M Dynamic Mode and I find about 3000 RPM does nicely if you want to get a good start, may not necessarily be the fastest but it gets the job done a lot of times imo
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      08-09-2008, 05:17 PM   #8
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[QUOTE=M3Mikey;3132115]Hi guys I have a question. I raced a neon the other day and when I launched it the rpms just dropped then slowly picked up again...


So did you beat the crap out of the Neon? Please tell me you did!
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      08-09-2008, 07:53 PM   #9
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well yes but I didn't leave him in the dust because the traction control slowed my launch by a ton.
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      08-10-2008, 12:01 AM   #10
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Turn traction all the way off! M-Dynamic mode has been cutting power on my car from the 1-2 shifts.
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      08-10-2008, 06:01 AM   #11
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Turn off DSC entirely. Let the clutch out from ~3500 without dumping it, but don't ride the clutch for long either. You should get "some" wheelspin and then the wheels should hook up. If they don't, you need to back off the throttle slightly, and as soon as they connect, get back on it. Practice in an empty safe lot with even surface. If you do it too much, you will wear out your clutch faster. If you feel vibrations/shuddering in the transmission, often referred to as "wheel hop", back off right away, or you'll damage something. If you do the 1->2 right, you should get some wheelspin there as well.
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      08-10-2008, 09:00 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3Mikey View Post
well yes but I didn't leave him in the dust because the traction control slowed my launch by a ton.
So what? He can only go fast in a straight line, you can out maneuver him and plus, you got an M3, he's got a crappy girly car.
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      08-10-2008, 11:00 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BimmerRob08 View Post
So did you beat the crap out of the Neon? Please tell me you did!
A modified Neon SRT4 could very well beat a stock M3 in a drag race. It's a lightweight, cheap car that can make a ton of power.
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      08-10-2008, 11:11 AM   #14
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only race someone if they wanna buy ur gas after

DSC off, rev to 3500-4k RPM DUMP that clutch and say bye bye to neon
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      08-10-2008, 09:05 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mantis View Post
only race someone if they wanna buy ur gas after

DSC off, rev to 3500-4k RPM DUMP that clutch and say bye bye to neon
Um no, say good bye to your tires. Have you tried this yet? My car just sits at the light kicking sideways.
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      08-10-2008, 10:09 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChitownM3 View Post
Um no, say good bye to your tires. Have you tried this yet? My car just sits at the light kicking sideways.
Better to say goodbye to your tires than to your clutch. Break traction on green and feather the throttle to get maximum acceleration and proper amount of wheel spin.
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      08-10-2008, 11:47 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Patricius View Post
Better to say goodbye to your tires than to your clutch. Break traction on green and feather the throttle to get maximum acceleration and proper amount of wheel spin.
And lose to somebody that is slipping their clutch. BTW, my clutch is covered under the maintenance plan, your tires however are not.
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      08-11-2008, 12:04 AM   #18
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Wonder if this is a Canadian thing but my tires are under warranty. 3 years/100KM although I would never dump my clutch at 3500-4k.
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      08-11-2008, 03:40 AM   #19
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I wouldn't just dump the clutch. You wouldn't be just wearing out your clutch, but also stressing the rest of the drivetrain as well by dumping the clutch.
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      08-11-2008, 09:08 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChitownM3 View Post
And lose to somebody that is slipping their clutch. BTW, my clutch is covered under the maintenance plan, your tires however are not.
Your priorities are ass backwards. Let's check back 3-4 years from now and see how you feel about the topic.
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      08-12-2008, 01:31 PM   #21
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R&T says to use 3900rpm, quickly release the clutch, and then slowly roll onto the gas. I think the mistake people make is that they rev to 3900rpm, dump the clutch, and then use full throttle immediately. I have never done that, but I could imagine a lot of tire smoke and not much forward velocity.

(I attached the R&T Data Sheet from their website www.roadandtrack.com)
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File Type: pdf 0208_RT_BMW_M3_datapanel.pdf (795.6 KB, 200 views)
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