[scalbert]

I got around to it today. These are Riss Racing catless units which I have had sitting on the shelf for about 4 months now. But this install has a little twist to it. I was also preparing for the Borla catless midpipes I just purchased from a member. So I won't bore with the regular DP install matters, just the differences and a few small points of reference.

First off, the tools are critical. Besides regular hand tools I would recommend as being a requirement having air tools and long extensions. Total time for the DP's themselves was about 3 hours. One tool in particular is an O2 sensor crow’s foot. This is nearly a must on the front sensors as well as an air ratchet.



The removal is fairly easy with the exhaust out of the way. More on that in a moment. Be sure to use extensions and swivels to get the stock hanger bolts off. Yes, the regular method of removing the passenger side steering rack bolt was done but instead of removing the heat shield, I just bent it out of the way. The Front O2 sensors were removed using the above tool and then the V-Band bolts. The hanger nuts were next and then the rear O2 sensors.

The installation was a bit more cumbersome that I anticipated. I have installed UR catted units and thought he RR catless units would be easier. They were about the same. The spacing is little to none; it is tight in there. I also had to remove the old heat shield bolt on the block to get enough clearance. It also took some maneuvering to get the front DP up and in place. It touched the rear one and may be by design. Both have little clearance around them but neither are contacting the body or powertrain.

Now back to the exhaust removal. The exhaust has to be shifted back on order to get the stock DP's off as they have pressed in bolts. The exhaust has to go back enough for the bolts to have clearance and IMO, it is just as easy to drop the front section of the exhaust to get the needed room. But in preparation of the Borla midpipes, I went ahead and cut the midpipes and I am glad I did; in a way.

I used the Borla installation instruction to determine where to cut; 5.25 inches from the rear weld of the rear cat on the passenger side pipe and 11 inches from the rear weld of the rear drivers side cat. I started with one of the chain style exhaust cutting tools which ended up being a joke (thankfully I borrowed it from the parts store and did not purchase one). It started cutting and then dulled in no time even with ample lubricant. So I picked up my father-in-laws sawzall and was through the pipes in no time. Albeit one cut was not very straight. By doing this sets me up for the midpipe install and gave me the clearance I needed to remove the stock DP's.













Now for the reason being I was glad I cut it. With the new DP's in and the old midpipes bolted up there ended up being nearly a 3/4 inch gap. Granted, some material was removed during the cut but only about 1/16 of an inch. To get this together with nothing cut would have required some serious tension on the exhaust. Luckily now it is at rest. But I did still need to clamp it together so I had picked up some 2.5 inch stainless band exhaust clamps. The problem was that the stock exhaust is not 2.5 inches; more like 70 mm if I were to guess. So clamps never closed up on the stock pipe.

Since the stock midpipes are just temporary until my new Borla midpipes arrive, I just made a temporary fix. I used some of the adhesive exhaust repair tape around the ends of the pipes which allowed for the clamps to finally grab enough. There is still a small exhaust leak when cold but closed up when warmed and since this is just for about a week, I can live with it. Once the new midpipes are in I will get it welded up.





Now for the good, if you can say that. I went for a quick test drive and spool up was great. In fact, too great. I am running the latest Stage 2 maps and anything over 50% throttle in 2nd ended with a loss of traction. It even broke loose when rolling on the throttle in 3rd. Time for some new rear tires it seems. When the midpipes arrive and the non-Doomsday maps are loaded, traction will become a rare commodity.

As for the bad, I may have messed up one of the rear O2 sensors. I thought I was being careful but after seeing another member end up with the same issue, we may have a case of fragile sensors. I got P0036 which is the heater circuit failure for Bank 1 Sensor 2. It would not clear initially and was persistent. After the drive I was able to clear it but we'll see if it comes back tomorrow.

If it comes back I'll just order a new sensor and swap it out when I install the new midpipes. So no big deal other than I should have been more careful; or perhaps it is just fragile. We'll see though.

But to sum up, it is a tight fit but the benefits are there. Just have patience and the right tools and yes, it can be done on stands and ramps.

[1clean335i]

ill be getting me a pair of downpipes soon..

[ontopofm]

congrat on the intall, sorry you're getitng the P0036 code, cant believe how easy the rear sensor could be damaged

[Alex@AKMotorwerk]

Originally Posted by ontopofm

congrat on the intall, sorry you're getitng the P0036 code, cant believe how easy the rear sensor could be damaged

Yep. same P0036 code here. I have a generic Bosch 02 sensor sitting here waiting to get installed because i couldn't justify paying ~$180 for an OEM sensor. Thanks to "ontopofm" for the part number, PM me if you need more info on/place to buy that sensor.

They really are damn fragil!

[scalbert]

BTW, what were ya'll's build dates?

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Great write up. and awesome pics

Mike

[Alex@AKMotorwerk]

Originally Posted by scalbert

BTW, what were ya'll's build dates?

May 2007
still on Pre-29.2 if that matters

[scalbert]

Originally Posted by N54Tuning.com

Great write up. and awesome pics

Mike

Thanks, I was out of Budweiser cans otherwise I would have used that to seal the clamp gap.

[scalbert]

Originally Posted by nj323ci

May 2007
still on Pre-29.2 if that matters

Hrmm, Aprill 2007 here with V28

[Alex@AKMotorwerk]

Originally Posted by scalbert

Hrmm, Aprill 2007 here with V28

yeah, i have V28 too... i'm curious as to what "ontopofm" build date is and ECU version

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by scalbert

Thanks, I was out of Budweiser cans otherwise I would have used that to seal the clamp gap.

Now that would have been the picture of the year hehee

Mike

[ontopofm]

Originally Posted by scalbert

Hrmm, Aprill 2007 here with V28

mine is also April 07 with V28

[Alex@AKMotorwerk]

Originally Posted by ontopofm

mine is also April 07 with V28

hmmm... might be on to something. Any ideas what that something might be?
Software version not reading that sensor correctly or maybe a bad/fragil batch of 02 sensors during those build dates?

[hotrod182]

Great informative post and pics!
I'm still afraid to do something so drastic, but we will see.
I have a snap-on hydraulic mid lift in my garage, so it would probably be a little easier being able to sit under the car and work.

[dlbrooks18]

thanks for the write up

[A418t81]

I have gotten the heater code before as well, though I cleared it and its been gone since. I am April 07 V28 also.

[bmwturbopower]

Damn, So this is what I have to look forward to when I get DP's? nice write up and for DP's

[scalbert]

Originally Posted by nj323ci

hmmm... might be on to something. Any ideas what that something might be?
Software version not reading that sensor correctly or maybe a bad/fragil batch of 02 sensors during those build dates?

Who knows, but I would lean towards a fragile or marginal sensor. Considering the small group we have here, including A418t8, with essentially the same build date, it does seem to be more than just coincidence.

So far so good this morning, no code yet. But that exhaust leak was nasty when pulling out of my garage

[scalbert]

Originally Posted by JNic335i

Damn, So this is what I have to look forward to when I get DP's?

Depends, if you have access to a lift and some extra hands to help; it would be breeze.

[scalbert]

Originally Posted by hotrod182

Great informative post and pics!
I'm still afraid to do something so drastic, but we will see.
I have a snap-on hydraulic mid lift in my garage, so it would probably be a little easier being able to sit under the car and work.

Oh, come on, just rip the band-aid off...

[scalbert]

FYI, the exhaust tape blew out pretty quickly leaving me with an open exhaust (rather embarrassing in this vehicle). So I decided to fix it up tonight. It looks like the stock exhaust is 60mm so 2.5 inch piping should slide right over it; it didn't.

I cut some 2.5 inch tubing into 5 inch lengths to act as a coupler and then clamp it. But the 2.5 inch tubing would not slide over easily enough. So I cut about 1 inch lengths, ground the edges and the weld seam, and then pounded it onto the ends of the pipe. From there I used the same 2.5 inch band clamps to secure the ends. Worked great and sets me up for the new midpipes; I'll just pop on a 2.5 inch section to them and call it a day.

As an important side note, I resolved the O2 sensor heater circuit issue. I had picked up a wire in replacement and prepared for the install. But once I grabbed the connector I found it popped right off; meaning it was not fully seated. Once I pushed it back in, verified it was secure and fired up the car, all was well and no code is present.

So, for those who may get this code after installing DP's, check the connector, it may have come loose.

[Mr. 5]

It's about time!!

Yah, I stopped with the clamp connectors a while back.
I get everything welded now.
If I do something else, i just go back to the muffler guy and have it redone.
I never worry about anything leaking.