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04-30-2009, 08:34 PM | #1 |
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Safe Brakes
For those tracking their 135i, what brake fluid are you using? I'm afraid the stock stuff will boil over.
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04-30-2009, 09:16 PM | #2 |
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Last year I hit a couple of track days with the stock fluid and things were getting mushy as the sessions went on.
I upgraded to ATE Super Blue before my first track day this year and I was very happy. No problems braking all day.
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05-01-2009, 08:45 AM | #3 |
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I've been using ATE Super Blue for track days and for the street with good results. Also, alternating flushes between ATE TYP 200 (Amber) and Super Blue make it easier to see when the older fluid is flushed out.
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05-01-2009, 09:22 AM | #4 |
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I managed to get complete fluid fade (pedal goes to the floor), triggering a full shutdown of DSC and ABS systems. Changed to Motul RBF 660, no problems at all now - highly recommended.
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05-01-2009, 09:32 AM | #5 |
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Did you guys change the fluid yourself? I just bought a pressure bleeder and figure I'll do this (ATE Super Blue) and change the pads (Carbotech AX6) myself, but was wondering if there are any pitfalls I should avoid.
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05-01-2009, 11:00 AM | #6 |
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No pitfalls changing brake fluid. I've used the good ole "Pump & Hold" method and now a pressure bleeder (Motive). I haven't changed pads yet. I too am looking for some DIY info on changing 135i pads.
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05-01-2009, 02:26 PM | #7 |
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Motive Pressure bleeder -- piece of cake. Use a turkey baster to take out as much of the old fluid out of the reservoir before you begin. I too like the method of using blue to tell when all new fluid. If you don't take out the old first it will go from Amber to Green to Blue and the Green transition will take longer. It's only $10 for a can of Blue so you could even use it as a die marker when switching from an Amber to another Amber (Motul). Not a very green solution. Don't even think about SRF -- not compatible with anything else and very expensive.
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05-01-2009, 03:09 PM | #8 |
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I already have the pads, fluid and Motive pressure bleeder. I'll let you know if I make any rookie mistakes. I guess I'll also take pics of the pad change since they don't seem to exist yet.
thanks for the advice guys.
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05-01-2009, 05:44 PM | #9 |
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I'm interested in DIY for all of the above. I have Hawk HP+ for my first track day, and will have them changed at the same time as my inspection... I'm curious, should I change back to OEM pads afterwards?
I was thinking that if I "practiced" changing the out the OEM pads with the HP+ (street/track) at home before my first few events, then I could eventually be quick enough to progress to changing them out with full track pads up at the track. Of course, having never changed a pad this is a little ambitious. |
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05-02-2009, 06:18 AM | #11 |
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Is there potential issues of using this kind of brake fluid for daily driving as well? And could I keep stock pads for track with this fluid if I go just a few times a year?
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05-02-2009, 08:48 AM | #12 |
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The relatively high wet boiling point of ATE Super Blue causes it to absorb moisture very slowly whereas its high dry boiling point make it suitable for street use as well as track day events. I've been running the stock pads at the track with no problem but the weather has been in the 40º-50º range. I plan on using a harder compound pad in the hot summer months as they'll do a better job dissipating heat.
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05-03-2009, 12:03 AM | #13 |
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I also use ATE Super Blue for both track (4 days at Buttonwillow & Streets of Willow so far) and regular street driving. Stock pads. Zero brake fade. I even applied full brake at the end of a 128 mph indicated straight away... just before a 90 deg. turn. 100+ mph braking 3 times every 2 min., 10-12 sec. lap! ATE brake fluid is good stuff!
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05-03-2009, 11:43 AM | #14 |
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I'll be doing this in two weeks, so be patient. I'll make sure to take a photo journal though.
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05-05-2009, 10:02 PM | #15 |
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We run Motul RBF600 cause it's cheaper. No problems with it at all.
You must be a baller using the RBF660. |
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05-06-2009, 12:36 AM | #16 |
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My first trackday was difficult for my brakes now with motul I have 4 trackdays and the brakes dont get tired jejejej
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05-06-2009, 12:37 PM | #17 | |
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Quote:
Are you running trackdays on the stock pads?
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06-01-2009, 09:03 AM | #18 |
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what is with these brakes
I haven't posted in a year because as soon as I bought the 135i for my wife she informed me she wasn't going to loan it out to be flogged on the track. Which is fine, we have plenty of racing activities to keep us busy. However I'm a member of NJMP and this weekend while testing the formula ford I figured it was a gorgeous day, my wife is out of the country, I had driven the 1 to the track so it looked awfully tempting...
Bottom line is: WHAT IS WITH THESE BRAKES!!! The car is a terrific little beast on the track, once you forgive those inappropriate tires and factory push. But the brakes were literally good for no more than 4 laps. Lap 1: 125->70 for T1, hauls it right down, abs doing all the work, gee could've waited a little longer, Lap 2: no abs, gee there wasn't the margin I thought there was and wow what a lot of brake smell; Lap3; no abs, whoa prepare for improv as we go through here a bit faster than I would've liked brakes now smoking at other corners too; Lap 4; ok we're coming in, can't depend on the binders for any corner let alone T1, back in the paddock; smoke pouring out of both fronts; hop in and roll around the campus for 10 min to cool down. So maybe it is just the fluid, but I also think really inadequate cooling. I just don't see why they should get that hot. I was on the Lightening circuit which is really a momentum track with only one slowish corner. What is particularly galling is they equip the cars with so much showy brake bling; monster rotors, big painted calipers etc. Gosh they oughta last when you work them hard. So I drove it 3 more times. They smoked a lot less, maybe we were boiling out some of the foul humours the first time, but still didn't last long and I only did 4-5 lap sessions. Anyhow, interesting to see other have encountered the same issue.
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06-01-2009, 10:10 AM | #19 |
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Stock pads fade before the brakes get hot enough to boil the fluid. That is one of the reasons the brake dust is so easy to clean off the wheels. Change to a track pad and cleaning must occur before the dust comes in contact with water and hardens. I have run the temp strips on the calipers to analyze temps on the 911. Brakes are still hard with the calipers at 410F (ATE Blue) -- rotor temps around 1000F -- IR gun only on rotors -- Hawk HT10. Pads on 135 faded with the rotor in the 500F range, calipers were less then 300F.
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06-12-2009, 03:21 PM | #20 | |
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And yes the wheels are just black. Thanks for the heads up I just returned from some travel a few days before she does, and will get busy with the wheel cleaner and power washer before she sees the car!!!
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06-15-2009, 02:33 PM | #21 |
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