[firechicken99]

So on a spirited drive home today i got 4 codes...

12544 - Boost deactivation limp mode (caused by another code)
10887 - Outlet VANOS Variable Cam Control Test
10722 - Fuel Injector Rail Pressure Sensor Signal
10738? I thought it was ..38 but when I looked up the codes this doesnt exist. Based on the other codes my guess is it was a 9 because 10739 is "Fuel Pressure Sensor, Electrical" which would make sense.

Anyways I have never data logged before but have my laptop setup to do so. Are there any suggestions as to fields I should log? I would at the least like to log fuel pressure to see how that holds up at high RPM's (HPFP was already replaced under recall).

Does anyone know if that VANOS code is the one people commonly post about on here? I have read that some fix the issue by removing it and spraying with carb cleaner.

I have done a little searching on the forum but it is still my first time doing any logs for the purpose of trying to replicate/diagnose any codes so any suggestions would be of help!

Your thoughtful responses are greatly appreciated!

[Turkeybaster115]

This is why I'm only doing JB+ set at 50%. Anything more than that seems to cause all sorts of headaches.

[OpenFlash]

Originally Posted by firechicken99

So on a spirited drive home today i got 4 codes...

12544 - Boost deactivation limp mode (caused by another code)
10887 - Outlet VANOS Variable Cam Control Test
10722 - Fuel Injector Rail Pressure Sensor Signal
10738? I thought it was ..38 but when I looked up the codes this doesnt exist. Based on the other codes my guess is it was a 9 because 10739 is "Fuel Pressure Sensor, Electrical" which would make sense.

Anyways I have never data logged before but have my laptop setup to do so. Are there any suggestions as to fields I should log? I would at the least like to log fuel pressure to see how that holds up at high RPM's (HPFP was already replaced under recall).

Does anyone know if that VANOS code is the one people commonly post about on here? I have read that some fix the issue by removing it and spraying with carb cleaner.

I have done a little searching on the forum but it is still my first time doing any logs for the purpose of trying to replicate/diagnose any codes so any suggestions would be of help!

Your thoughtful responses are greatly appreciated!

10738 translates to 29f2 which is the famous bad HPFP pressure code. That will cause the boost deactivation code and, most likely, the other fuel pressure code. The VANOS code can only be fixed by either cleaning (or more likely) replacing that particular VANOS solenoid. It only takes 5min to do and the solenoid costs around $100.

Looks like a call to the dealership is in order. Leave the codes in there and just remove the Procede.

Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115

This is why I'm only doing JB+ set at 50%. Anything more than that seems to cause all sorts of headaches.

It's not tune related.

[firechicken99]

Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu

10738 translates to 29f2 which is the famous bad HPFP pressure code. That will cause the boost deactivation code and, most likely, the other fuel pressure code. The VANOS code can only be fixed by either cleaning (or more likely) replacing that particular VANOS solenoid. It only takes 5min to do and the solenoid costs around $100.

Looks like a call to the dealership is in order. Leave the codes in there and just remove the Procede.




It's not tune related.

Thanks Shiv. That sucks because the HPFP was replaced last fall under recall....

If the car is completely out of warranty is it worth taking procede out? They couldnt claim that would mess with the fuel pump would they?

BTW ive been trying to call your shop lately but the number is always busy. Robert (i believe) took care of my procede a few months ago unlocking the vin and held onto it while you finished up a newer firmware to fix some sort of "fart" sounding issue as he described lol.. Anyways, i was under the impression that one of the gauge modes was "Boost AND Oil temp" Yet it looks like the second two modes are both Boost and AFR. Does that sound right?

[enrita]

if you look at the procede software screen you will see what all gauges modes do.

[OpenFlash]

Originally Posted by firechicken99

Thanks Shiv. That sucks because the HPFP was replaced last fall under recall....

If the car is completely out of warranty is it worth taking procede out? They couldnt claim that would mess with the fuel pump would they?

BTW ive been trying to call your shop lately but the number is always busy. Robert (i believe) took care of my procede a few months ago unlocking the vin and held onto it while you finished up a newer firmware to fix some sort of "fart" sounding issue as he described lol.. Anyways, i was under the impression that one of the gauge modes was "Boost AND Oil temp" Yet it looks like the second two modes are both Boost and AFR. Does that sound right?

The HPFP should still be covered even though your car is out of warranty. So yes, i would remove the Procede and take it in for a replacement. The 5 min it takes to remove is not worth the complication at the dealership IMHO. But you will have to foot the bill for a replacement VANOS solenoid. If i were you, i'd do that myself and replace both solenoids. It will take you about 5 min and costs you around $230 for both solenoids. If your car has over 50k miles, it no surprise that the solenoid needs to be cleaned/replaced.

The gauge modes are explained, in chart format, in the software. There is a mode for Boost+Oil temp as well as a mode for Boost+AFR.

Shiv

[firechicken99]

Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu

The HPFP should still be covered even though your car is out of warranty. So yes, i would remove the Procede and take it in for a replacement. The 5 min it takes to remove is not worth the complication at the dealership IMHO. But you will have to foot the bill for a replacement VANOS solenoid. If i were you, i'd do that myself and replace both solenoids. It will take you about 5 min and costs you around $230 for both solenoids. If your car has over 50k miles, it no surprise that the solenoid needs to be cleaned/replaced.

The gauge modes are explained, in chart format, in the software. There is a mode for Boost+Oil temp as well as a mode for Boost+AFR.

Shiv

I did and i have cycled through the modes, my car has two Boost + AFR modes, I dont know how to explain that, but modes 2 and 3 are both boost/AFR.

Car has 69K so I will pull out the outlet VANOS and give it a cleaning, this is the first time it popped up so i might as well give it a try, otherwise I'll order some new ones.

[OpenFlash]

Originally Posted by firechicken99

I did and i have cycled through the modes, my car has two Boost + AFR modes, I dont know how to explain that, but modes 2 and 3 are both boost/AFR.

Trust me, you have the same modes as everyone else
1) Stock gauges
2) Boost+oil temp
3) Boost+AFR
4) Ign Advance+ IAT

Car has 69K so I will pull out the outlet VANOS and give it a cleaning, this is the first time it popped up so i might as well give it a try, otherwise I'll order some new ones.

With that many miles on the original solenoids, i'd suggest just replacing them both. Cleaning only works maybe 50% of the time. With that many miles, it will fail on you again soon.

[Turkeybaster115]

Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu

It's not tune related.

That might jolly well be the case shiv, and while I do not want to get involved in a tuner debate, I personally feel that your tune, along with a whole list of others, is too aggressive to maintain daily reliability of non-upgraded key components. e.g: trans, HPFP, and turbos.

[firechicken99]

Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu

Trust me, you have the same modes as everyone else
1) Stock gauges
2) Boost+oil temp
3) Boost+AFR
4) Ign Advance+ IAT



With that many miles on the original solenoids, i'd suggest just replacing them both. Cleaning only works maybe 50% of the time. With that many miles, it will fail on you again soon.

YouTube video processing.. I swear it may be Friday for me but I'm not losing it.


Turkey k appreciate the input and you know I think you're threads (esp the AT trans ones) are awesome, but let's please keep on topic guys

[OpenFlash]

Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115

That might jolly well be the case shiv, and while I do not want to get involved in a tuner debate, I personally feel that your tune, along with a whole list of others, is too aggressive to maintain daily reliability of non-upgraded key components. e.g: trans, HPFP, and turbos.

I don't know of any transmissions failing short of 6ATs running 18+psi of boost with upgraded turbos or nitrous. Nor do I hear of many turbo failures. And we all know that HPFPs fail, tuned or not. But your feelings are always welcome. As is empirical evidence that, in my opinion, suggest otherwise.

Shiv

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115

That might jolly well be the case shiv, and while I do not want to get involved in a tuner debate, I personally feel that your tune, along with a whole list of others, is too aggressive to maintain daily reliability of non-upgraded key components. e.g: trans, HPFP, and turbos.

I dont think tuning or modifications is ever done to increase reliability or longevity of a vehicle....

FWIW my HPFP failed on my brand new bone stock car at 1200 miles.

I dont know of any trans failures except 2 of the high HP guys (both auto well over 450WHP and TQ), and the Ive heard many stories of turbo failures on stock vehicles both locally and on the forums...

[firechicken99]

I think it's pretty obvious that the only mode with oil temp is the stock one that doesnt show boost


and ingore that horrible sound towards the end... text message! ha

[OpenFlash]

Originally Posted by firechicken99

I think it's pretty obvious that the only mode with oil temp is the stock one that doesnt show boost


and ingore that horrible sound towards the end... text message! ha

Are you trying to build boost with your transmission in Park?

[firechicken99]

Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu

Are you trying to build boost with your transmission in Park?

Shiv i have no interest in showing you boost lol. The purpose was to note that none of the modes display Boost + oil temp. You can see the first two are AFR and the last is obviously not oil.... I thought there were 5 modes? The DTC only cycles 4 (0,1,2,3)

The boost in park is obviously 0, if there was 0 gas i dont think my engine would be running.

[Turkeybaster115]

Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu

I don't know of any transmissions failing short of 6ATs running 18+psi of boost with upgraded turbos or nitrous. Nor do I hear of many turbo failures. And we all know that HPFPs fail, tuned or not. But your feelings are always welcome. As is empirical evidence that, in my opinion, suggest otherwise.

Shiv

Shiv search for Mr. 5, and you'll see his mt went right after his GIAC stg 2 install (16-18psi). The 6AT (6hp19) seems stronger than most, but it does have a maximum input torque of 295ft/lbs from the factory. The stock turbos are a joke, and even carry an extended warranty to 120K in california. I'm not trying to be a jerk or nothin', on the contrary, I really appreciate the hard work, blood, sweat and tears that you and the other aftermarket tuners have put into our cars. However, I do feel that the amount of power that your procede, JB3/4, Stg 1&2 flash tunes, and COBB, are pushing is a bit excessive, and borders on irresponsibility, for not warning the end users of the high risks to their non-upgraded, vulnerable stock components.

There is a reason why the factory performance flash is no where near the type of power, you guys are pushing.

[OpenFlash]

Originally Posted by firechicken99

Shiv i have no interest in showing you boost lol. The purpose was to note that none of the modes display Boost + oil temp. You can see the first two are AFR and the last is obviously not oil.... I thought there were 5 modes? The DTC only cycles 4 (0,1,2,3)

The boost in park is obviously 0, if there was 0 gas i dont think my engine would be running.

It looks like you are toggling through maps, not gauge display modes.

[firechicken99]

Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115

(slimmed down )

There is a reason why the factory performance flash is no where near the type of power, you guys are pushing.

FWIW while I agree in some part, it is the end users responsibility if they are going to look into and purchase a tune, to educate themselves just a little bit! For those reasons I set my proceed to max out at about 13psi.

We get how you feel buddy, and for the moment could we kindly shift back to the gauge questions.

[Turkeybaster115]

Originally Posted by Jeff@topgearsolutions

I dont think tuning or modifications is ever done to increase reliability or longevity of a vehicle.

Jeff, a car is either overbuilt from the factory, or it is not. The 335I is a good example of a car thats soft, and not overbuilt. I still see tons of 90's DSMs, supras, 03 cobras, and eary WRX's with tripple digit miles, on insane boost levels. Anything over the factory performance tune, and you really have to beef up the turbos, and tranny. Even then you will still see all types of engine gremlins that seem to come with the N54.

[OpenFlash]

Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115

Shiv search for Mr. 5, and you'll see his mt went right after his GIAC stg 2 install (16-18psi). The 6AT (6hp19) seems stronger than most, but it does have a maximum input torque of 295ft/lbs from the factory. The stock turbos are a joke, and even carry an extended warranty to 120K in california. I'm not trying to be a jerk or nothin', on the contrary, I really appreciate the hard work, blood, sweat and tears that you and the other aftermarket tuners have put into our cars. However, I do feel that the amount of power that your procede, JB3/4, Stg 1&2 flash tunes, and COBB, are pushing is a bit excessive, and borders on irresponsibility, for not warning the end users of the high risks to their non-upgraded, vulnerable stock components.

There is a reason why the factory performance flash is no where near the type of power, you guys are pushing.

Mr. 5 has what is essentially a dedicated drag car (ie, slicks, line lock, upgraded clutch, 16-18psi, etc,.) There is a pretty big world of difference between what he subjects his car to and that of others. The tune itself is not what broke his transmission. If that were the case, we'd say hundred of other transmissions failures from all those people making even more power than his car. I appreciate your thoughts. But I'm confident that you are incorrect here.

Shiv

[Turkeybaster115]

Originally Posted by firechicken99

We get how you feel buddy, and for the moment could we kindly shift back to the gauge questions.

My bad dude, didn't mean to thread jack.

[firechicken99]

Thanks for bringing this back on topic guys.

Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu

It looks like you are toggling through maps, not gauge display modes.

if you watch the whole thing you can see at the end my gauges go back to Fuel Level and Oil when the Tach reads mode 0. (Stock)

while i know this isnt "official" i took this from the user created V5 manual on google docs

"
Change gauge displays on the go

Double tap the hazard light button quickly, gauges will be cycled through the following modes. Note: Mode 1 will be selected when advancing from mode 5, so the order would be 1,2,3,4,5,1,2,3,4,5,ect.
"