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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N57 / M57 Turbo Diesel Discussions - 335d > 1st gear shifting early?



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      08-20-2011, 06:45 PM   #1
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1st gear shifting early?

Hey guys.

Just ran into an issue this morning that I haven't been able to troubleshoot. Whether the car is tuned or not, first gear in M1 is shifting at 4000 instead of 4500 (like the rest of the gears). This happens whether tuned or stock. I've tried clearing codes, resetting the transmission (although this shouldn't matter when in M1 or DS), ECU Reset through the BT (this doesn't seem to do anything, as there's no ECU reset specific to the ECU itself, only specific modules), resetting the fuel adaptation, etc...everything I can think of.

In addition. I'm seeing decreased power across the range, regardless of tune or stock. The car just doesn't seem to be running the way it should (and it was running nice and quick last night).

Finally, I'm seeing a Shadow Code 44CF that's popping up even when stock (and this is the first time I've ever seen a Shadow Code on the car), and I can't seem to find what the code means.

If anyone has any input or feedback, I'm all ears.

EDIT: I've also found that if I don't WOT, it shifts when it should, but there's still a definitive lack of acceleration, too. Adding videos to show what's going on.



Last edited by Ron1n; 08-20-2011 at 07:08 PM..
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      08-21-2011, 10:06 AM   #2
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STOP. 1st gear is designed just to get the car moving. Going to 4k rpms in 1st will just cause premature wear. Use some common sense for Christs sake.
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      08-21-2011, 12:51 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socom View Post
STOP. 1st gear is designed just to get the car moving. Going to 4k rpms in 1st will just cause premature wear. Use some common sense for Christs sake.
I'm suprised you have traction to go WOT in 1st to 4000!! The power drops off slightly after 4000rpm anyway.
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      08-21-2011, 01:24 PM   #4
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Problem with the DPF maybe?
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      08-21-2011, 01:49 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socom View Post
STOP. 1st gear is designed just to get the car moving. Going to 4k rpms in 1st will just cause premature wear. Use some common sense for Christs sake.
That's a pretty stupid statement. The point is the car isn't acting the way it should, and that's a problem. It's that simple. I never said that I did it all the time, but noticing the change is what is important.

Regarding the traction, as I said before, there's a loss of power....traction in 1st and 2nd is a problem when the car is running right. With traction control on, under WOT, the car drops power to maintain traction in both gears.
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      08-22-2011, 09:09 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron1n View Post
That's a pretty stupid statement. The point is the car isn't acting the way it should, and that's a problem. It's that simple. I never said that I did it all the time, but noticing the change is what is important.

Regarding the traction, as I said before, there's a loss of power....traction in 1st and 2nd is a problem when the car is running right. With traction control on, under WOT, the car drops power to maintain traction in both gears.
That's what I cal irony. You're ragging out th car and use that as a basis for saying it's down on power. Like others have said. It could be DPF.
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      08-22-2011, 09:47 AM   #7
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lol... search google for "bmw code 44cf" and the first result is: this thread.


I say DPF because if that's clogged you could be getting too much backpressure, and running a tune on a diesel does increase the amount of soot the DPF must filter. Are you seeing any change in fuel consumption while cruising?

The 44CF is apparently a rare code that BMW does not know about. It probably means "immediately place vehicle in an abandoned lot and maintain a safe distance of at least 200 feet"
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      08-22-2011, 10:34 AM   #8
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You don't know how I drive, and making judgement calls based on...well, nothing, is closed-minded and ignorant. Stay out of my thread if you can't produce something constructive.
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      08-23-2011, 04:39 PM   #9
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I've gotten some insight as to what might be wrong. As I was driving today, I got an error on the dash that turned out to mean the DPF is malfunctioning. This may be an indicator as to what's going on, but I won't know for sure at least until Thursday.

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      08-23-2011, 06:28 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron1n View Post
I've gotten some insight as to what might be wrong. As I was driving today, I got an error on the dash that turned out to mean the DPF is malfunctioning. This may be an indicator as to what's going on, but I won't know for sure at least until Thursday.

There's your answer! If your DPF is very clogged, that is very dangerous. Do not hesitate to get your car to BMW or the fixer's - might save you blowing an engine and quite a bit of money!
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      08-23-2011, 06:32 PM   #11
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Oh and get it out of DS :L more revs means more work for the DPF and potentially more backpressure
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      08-23-2011, 07:49 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SomeRandomer123 View Post
Oh and get it out of DS :L more revs means more work for the DPF and potentially more backpressure
While you're right, BMW should have thought of that, eh? :P
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      08-24-2011, 11:27 AM   #13
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Let us know what it is. And I bought my BMW so I could drive it hard, not shift early.
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      08-24-2011, 11:47 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron1n View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by SomeRandomer123 View Post
Oh and get it out of DS :L more revs means more work for the DPF and potentially more backpressure
While you're right, BMW should have thought of that, eh? :P
Indeed - Im suprised the warning isn't red and the car isn't in limp mode! The car may know the extent of the problem though (OBD-II is very clever) and may not warrant limp.
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      08-24-2011, 12:03 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SomeRandomer123 View Post
Indeed - Im suprised the warning isn't red and the car isn't in limp mode! The car may know the extent of the problem though (OBD-II is very clever) and may not warrant limp.
The car isn't quite in limp, but I'm guessing maybe 75% power. Adjusting my driving to account for the loss of power has been...interesting, especially on SoCal highways. Shooting the gap is a lot more difficult now.

Still searching for 44CF. I scanned this morning and had a few more codes (that weren't shadow), but didn't bring them with me to work (saved in a text file on my laptop at home).

I'll post em up a little bit later.
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      08-24-2011, 12:23 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socom View Post
STOP. 1st gear is designed just to get the car moving. Going to 4k rpms in 1st will just cause premature wear. Use some common sense for Christs sake.
It wont break the car revving high. I always launched my 335d hard from a standing start with no issues.
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      08-24-2011, 01:56 PM   #17
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Curious. Are you still running a ACEA C3 oil?
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      08-24-2011, 03:34 PM   #18
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yay, I love when a hunch is correct.


I wonder if the tunes have overloaded the DPF (more fuel = more soot).
Hopefully you won't run into any warranty issues.
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      08-24-2011, 03:42 PM   #19
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Why don't you just shift it yourself?
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      08-24-2011, 05:58 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dxb335d View Post
Why don't you just shift it yourself?
M1 is shifting it myself. When in M1, the only way to get the car to 4500 RPM anymore, aside from a steady throttle increase, is to force the car not to change gears until I want it to, which is hardly ideal.

Regarding warranty issues, I'm hoping that because it's a part that's required to keep the car CARB legal that it's extended beyond the normal warranty, because I didn't pick up the extended warranty on the car, just the extended maintenance. I may have to pick up the extended warranty tomorrow, depending on what the problem is and what it might cost. We'll see. In the meantime, I'll either be driving a dealership diesel or a 335i (maybe a 135i). We'll see what's available when I get there tomorrow morning. I love picking my loaner. :P

Quote:
Originally Posted by Socom View Post
Curious. Are you still running a ACEA C3 oil?
I personally am running whatever the dealership puts in the car when they do oil changes. Never really asked them what they put in there.
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      08-24-2011, 07:21 PM   #21
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Quote:
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I personally am running whatever the dealership puts in the car when they do oil changes. Never really asked them what they put in there.
Good.

On other thing to check off the list.
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      08-24-2011, 10:55 PM   #22
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Ok, ran the car tonight about 40 miles up and down the highway, and checked codes before, during, and after. Before, all codes were clear (I cleared them out a couple of days ago, and I rode my Gixxer 6 to work today....got some nice compound tires put on it today, too...).

Below are the codes that are currently on the car (no shadow codes this time around, which may be a good or bad thing...I don't know):

4BF4:

Error will cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed
Short circuit or signal interruption

480A:

Error will not cause a warning light
Error is currently present
Test conditions have been completed
Short circuit or signal interruption

481A:

Error will not cause a warning light
Error is currently present
Test conditions have been completed
Short circuit or signal interruption

4D00:
Exhaust gas back pressure sensor
Error will not cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed
Short circuit or signal interruption

4530:
Air charge control, deviation
Error will not cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed
Short circuit or signal interruption

429A:

Error will not cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed
Short circuit or signal interruption

I got the DPF error again, as well as limp mode once, during the drive.
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