DIY: Fender Rolling

HyperM3 · 10-06-2007, 11:51 AM

Ok, after a week of driving on my new apparently too wide shoes, I was tired of the rubbing. It wasnt happening all the time but it was a hassle to keep dodging bumps and grooves on a daily basis.

I finally found a place that had the eastwood fender roller around me. They let me borrow it for $30. I thought about investing in one for $200+ but figured I should attempt it first and see how it goes.

Anyway, for all those that want to know, Im running 19x9.5 wheels in the rear with et30 and 275.30.19 General Exclaims.

*-Denotes important safety point you dont want to skip over and I take no responsibility if you are an idiot.

*First off, you need to be on flat ground. Youre going to be lifting up the rear and if youre on an incline, theres nothing to stop your front wheels from rolling. Please do not attempt this any further if you dont feel comfortable with this.

Next you want to make sure you have two jackstands. I do not recommend using multiple boards of wood or bricks, youre just asking for trouble.

Now you can go about removing the rear wheels in two different ways. You can loosen the nuts while the car is still on the ground, or you can do it while the car is up in the air. If you choose the latter, youll need to make sure the parking brake is on so the wheels dont spin. However, youll need the parking brake off in order for the tool to move back and forth. I find the first choice to be the more efficient and quicker.

So, with the parking brake off and the rear lugs loosened, you want to slide your jack under the back of the car so that the pad is under the rear diff.

*Be careful when jacking as you wont have that much room and you will hit your bumper if youre not careful-patience is a virtue here. Youll be doing incrimental pumps to get the car in the air and once its up a few inches youll be able to get the jack handle moving much better.

Once the tires are cleanly off the ground, place the jackstands under the rear side jacking points of the car. Make sure that the jackstands are high enough so that when you lower the car, the tires dont rest back on the ground. *SLOWLY lower the jack so the car places itself correctly on the jackstands. You will hear creaking and moaning and more than likely the jackstands will move. DO NOT lower all the way, keep checking on the jackstands to make sure the car is placed properly on them. Once you have confirmed that, slowly lower the car until all the weight is on the jackstands.

*Keep the jack firmly placed under the diff as a secondary safety precaution if the jackstands fail.

Now remove the wheels and place the tool onto the hub. The tool I borrowed had a black ring inside that kept it from going onto the hub correctly. I just knocked it out with a flat head screwdriver. I then used my OEM lugs(only 4 of them) to hold the tool onto the hub.

Best thing to do is inspect the inside of the wheel well to see where the tires may be rubbing the most. Youll want to do that so you know where to focus most of your rolling.

*The hub rotates in a perfect circle, your wheel well doesnt. You do not want to run the roller back and forth along the whole wheel well. You want to do this in increments.

I started from the factory indent in the front part of the wheel well. Make sure the roller is placed correctly in the middle and at the right angle.

*Do not place intense pressure with the roller immediately. You want to start out slight and keep adding pressure gently.

Do about 4 inches at a time and then move onto the next part. Its at this critical juncture that you may think to yourself "this is easy, and I can do the whole thing in a few swipes, 4 inches a time is too slow". STOP. This is not something you can rush, unless you like cracked paint or a dented out fender.

You will see the fender pushing out as you keep applying pressure. You are doing two things here; flattening the inner lip, and actually moving the fender out. Because both things are happening at the same time, this is why you want to take your time.

I was able to do both fenders in about 20 mins each. The whole job took about an hour(including jacking, removing wheels etc.). I honestly think this is how long you should spend on it every time you do it. This is not a job you can rush through or perfect in 5 mins by doing it multiple times.

You will also notice that I didnt use a heat gun. While through all my research it seemed that it was a necessity, it was also 85°+ out and, well, I was just too lazy to go buy one. If you do it slow enough and careful enough you wont have any paint cracking issues. That being said, If I were to work on other peoples cars I would get one just for my insurance benefit. I saw one at Pepboys today for $19.99 so they arent wallet busters.

Anyway, heres the order of the pics.
1. Jacking point at the rear under the diff
2. Jackstand placement once the car is lifted
3. The black center ring I popped out of the tool
4. A picture of the inside of the wheel well to show where I was hitting. I couldnt tell if the black stuff on the liner was just overspray from my tireshine or if I was actually hitting it.
5. Placement of the tool on the inner fender lip
6. What the inside looks like after youre done rolling. The lip should be vertical and you can see the liner folding in to meet it.
7. The little amount that the fender gets wider by from the outside
8. You can see from above how it fits the tire better

If you have any questions or comments, feel free to post.

HyperM3 · 10-06-2007, 11:52 AM

Rest of the pics.

Autobot · 10-06-2007, 12:04 PM

Looks good, I have the same issue with my 265 with the same offset, and have been thinking of doing this for a while

STE92VE · 10-06-2007, 12:13 PM

Great write up!

Should make this a sticky so that anyone who wants to attempt this for themselves, will benefit from your experience.

You left out the most important piece of info though.....did you eliminate all rubbing after you performed the fender rolling?

HyperM3 · 10-06-2007, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by STE92VE

You left out the most important piece of info though.....did you eliminate all rubbing after you performed the fender rolling?

Haha, I guess thats important right? Yes, all rubbing has been eliminated. I took some of the roads that I know induced rubbing and hit those dips at a decent rate of speed. NO MORE RUBBING!!!

Very happy now.

Josh49 · 10-06-2007, 12:56 PM

Nice one hyper..

Do you have any before pics to compare the after to?

HyperM3 · 10-06-2007, 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Josh49

Nice one hyper..

Do you have any before pics to compare the after to?

Unfortunately not. The one thing anyone can compare is looking at their own fenders. If you slide your hand inside you can feel the lip(why did this sound dirty?) pointing towards the tire. And the outer fender will be vertical. Then look at my pics and they will see the inner lip is flush and the outer fender is bent outward more.

EDIT: Just found a pic of the what the fender looked like before.

Josh49 · 10-06-2007, 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HyperM3

Unfortunately not. The one thing anyone can compare is looking at their own fenders. If you slide your hand inside you can feel the lip(why did this sound dirty?) pointing towards the tire. And the outer fender will be vertical. Then look at my pics and they will see the inner lip is flush and the outer fender is bent outward more.

Wow, a DIY to finding the G-spot and a DIY for fender rolling.. You truly are an asset to this website..

Well, I'm about to head out to detail my car in a sec, so I'll take a look...

Spool · 10-06-2007, 02:05 PM

Good one man...but i don't know where to go to find the fender roller here...

I doubt autozone or pepboys carry this?

EastCoast335i · 10-06-2007, 02:23 PM

Great DIY...

If it hasnt already been done can this be added to the DIY section

HyperM3 · 10-07-2007, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spool

I doubt autozone or pepboys carry this?

NOBODY carries this. You either buy it directly from Eastwood, or Tirerack. Im thinking about picking one up though and adding that to my repetoire of mods I can do for people.

nmulax · 10-07-2007, 12:36 PM

awesome write-up and looks great.

cstmx_ryder · 10-10-2007, 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HyperM3

Rest of the pics.

Wait.....you said the fender got a little wider after rolling it? Then wouldn't the rear bumber not sit flush with the fender anymore now that the fender is wider? In the pix it shows that the bumper still sits flush w/ the fender......

HyperM3 · 10-10-2007, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cstmx_ryder

Wait.....you said the fender got a little wider after rolling it? Then wouldn't the rear bumber not sit flush with the fender anymore now that the fender is wider? In the pix it shows that the bumper still sits flush w/ the fender......

Its not a "widebody" kit. You only need to roll the top of the fender thats hitting. The back of the fender where it meets the bumper is nowhere close to rubbing so you dont need to roll all the way back there.

Bimmer335i07 · 10-10-2007, 12:55 PM

Nice job Alex!

BavDom · 10-10-2007, 01:10 PM

Very nice DIY Hyper, expected from someone like you

HyperM3 · 10-10-2007, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bimmer335i07

Nice job Alex!

Quote:

Originally Posted by BavDom

Very nice DIY Hyper, expected from someone like you

Thanks guys. Really means a lot.

NavyBusa · 10-10-2007, 05:10 PM

The Eastwood roller is on sale right now for $199.00 if anyone wants to pick one up.

HyperM3 · 10-10-2007, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NavyBusa

The Eastwood roller is on sale right now for $199.00 if anyone wants to pick one up.

Where at? I may just have to pick one up and offer my services in the area.

Spool · 12-22-2007, 12:26 PM

I just bought an Eastwood fender roller kit...

Gonna try this, im rubbing right now...digging up DIY

cycler · 12-22-2007, 05:51 PM

If I didnt something like that ide probably ruin my fenders.

hasrice · 06-06-2009, 01:17 AM

damn nice job, it looks like now you can get an even wider wheel in there. HAHA!

10-06-2007, 11:51 AM	#1
HyperM3 Too many Alex's, from now on, call me Beaufort 342 Rep 6,188 Posts Drives: See Sig Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Lawrenceville, NJ iTrader: (8)	DIY: Fender Rolling Ok, after a week of driving on my new apparently too wide shoes, I was tired of the rubbing. It wasnt happening all the time but it was a hassle to keep dodging bumps and grooves on a daily basis. I finally found a place that had the eastwood fender roller around me. They let me borrow it for $30. I thought about investing in one for $200+ but figured I should attempt it first and see how it goes. Anyway, for all those that want to know, Im running 19x9.5 wheels in the rear with et30 and 275.30.19 General Exclaims. -Denotes important safety point you dont want to skip over and I take no responsibility if you are an idiot. First off, you need to be on flat ground. Youre going to be lifting up the rear and if youre on an incline, theres nothing to stop your front wheels from rolling. Please do not attempt this any further if you dont feel comfortable with this. Next you want to make sure you have two jackstands. I do not recommend using multiple boards of wood or bricks, youre just asking for trouble. Now you can go about removing the rear wheels in two different ways. You can loosen the nuts while the car is still on the ground, or you can do it while the car is up in the air. If you choose the latter, youll need to make sure the parking brake is on so the wheels dont spin. However, youll need the parking brake off in order for the tool to move back and forth. I find the first choice to be the more efficient and quicker. So, with the parking brake off and the rear lugs loosened, you want to slide your jack under the back of the car so that the pad is under the rear diff. Be careful when jacking as you wont have that much room and you will hit your bumper if youre not careful-patience is a virtue here. Youll be doing incrimental pumps to get the car in the air and once its up a few inches youll be able to get the jack handle moving much better. Once the tires are cleanly off the ground, place the jackstands under the rear side jacking points of the car. Make sure that the jackstands are high enough so that when you lower the car, the tires dont rest back on the ground. SLOWLY lower the jack so the car places itself correctly on the jackstands. You will hear creaking and moaning and more than likely the jackstands will move. DO NOT lower all the way, keep checking on the jackstands to make sure the car is placed properly on them. Once you have confirmed that, slowly lower the car until all the weight is on the jackstands. Keep the jack firmly placed under the diff as a secondary safety precaution if the jackstands fail. Now remove the wheels and place the tool onto the hub. The tool I borrowed had a black ring inside that kept it from going onto the hub correctly. I just knocked it out with a flat head screwdriver. I then used my OEM lugs(only 4 of them) to hold the tool onto the hub. Best thing to do is inspect the inside of the wheel well to see where the tires may be rubbing the most. Youll want to do that so you know where to focus most of your rolling. The hub rotates in a perfect circle, your wheel well doesnt. You do not want to run the roller back and forth along the whole wheel well. You want to do this in increments. I started from the factory indent in the front part of the wheel well. Make sure the roller is placed correctly in the middle and at the right angle. *Do not place intense pressure with the roller immediately. You want to start out slight and keep adding pressure gently. Do about 4 inches at a time and then move onto the next part. Its at this critical juncture that you may think to yourself "this is easy, and I can do the whole thing in a few swipes, 4 inches a time is too slow". STOP. This is not something you can rush, unless you like cracked paint or a dented out fender. You will see the fender pushing out as you keep applying pressure. You are doing two things here; flattening the inner lip, and actually moving the fender out. Because both things are happening at the same time, this is why you want to take your time. I was able to do both fenders in about 20 mins each. The whole job took about an hour(including jacking, removing wheels etc.). I honestly think this is how long you should spend on it every time you do it. This is not a job you can rush through or perfect in 5 mins by doing it multiple times. You will also notice that I didnt use a heat gun. While through all my research it seemed that it was a necessity, it was also 85°+ out and, well, I was just too lazy to go buy one. If you do it slow enough and careful enough you wont have any paint cracking issues. That being said, If I were to work on other peoples cars I would get one just for my insurance benefit. I saw one at Pepboys today for $19.99 so they arent wallet busters. Anyway, heres the order of the pics. 1. Jacking point at the rear under the diff 2. Jackstand placement once the car is lifted 3. The black center ring I popped out of the tool 4. A picture of the inside of the wheel well to show where I was hitting. I couldnt tell if the black stuff on the liner was just overspray from my tireshine or if I was actually hitting it. 5. Placement of the tool on the inner fender lip 6. What the inside looks like after youre done rolling. The lip should be vertical and you can see the liner folding in to meet it. 7. The little amount that the fender gets wider by from the outside 8. You can see from above how it fits the tire better If you have any questions or comments, feel free to post. Attached Images __________________ 13 HD FatBob 17 A4 Glacier/Black 1st Edition/Pre+/Sport/EurocodeTMD/Racechip 16 S6 (gone),14 S6 (gone),14 S6 (gone),13 S6 (gone),10 S4 (gone) 07 335i(gone)
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10-06-2007, 11:52 AM	#2
HyperM3 Too many Alex's, from now on, call me Beaufort 342 Rep 6,188 Posts Drives: See Sig Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Lawrenceville, NJ iTrader: (8)	Rest of the pics. Attached Images __________________ 13 HD FatBob 17 A4 Glacier/Black 1st Edition/Pre+/Sport/EurocodeTMD/Racechip 16 S6 (gone),14 S6 (gone),14 S6 (gone),13 S6 (gone),10 S4 (gone) 07 335i(gone)
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10-06-2007, 12:04 PM	#3
Autobot Brigadier General 83 Rep 3,106 Posts Drives: 15 F22 M235 6MT Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Charleston, SC iTrader: (8)	Looks good, I have the same issue with my 265 with the same offset, and have been thinking of doing this for a while __________________ Delivered 28 May
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10-06-2007, 12:13 PM	#4
STE92VE STEVIL Empire 213 Rep 6,297 Posts Drives: Fast Join Date: May 2006 Location: Long Island, NY iTrader: (0)	Great write up! Should make this a sticky so that anyone who wants to attempt this for themselves, will benefit from your experience. You left out the most important piece of info though.....did you eliminate all rubbing after you performed the fender rolling? __________________ 2007 E92 328i 6MT-Space Gray/Black Dakota/Gray Poplar w/heated seats-PCD 4/27/07 (SOLD) 2009 E90 328i xDrive 6AT-Space Gray/Oyster Dakota/Dark Burl Walnut w/ZPP,ZCW,Xenons-ED 4/17/09 - Redelivery 5/30/09 (SOLD) 2014 E84 xDrive28i 8AT-Alpine White/Black Nevada/Silver Matte w/ZMV,ZLP,494 - DD 3/14/14 (SOLD)
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10-06-2007, 12:56 PM	#6
Josh49 Major General 252 Rep 6,664 Posts Drives: E90 325xi Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Boston, MA iTrader: (33)	Nice one hyper.. Do you have any before pics to compare the after to? __________________ E90 325XI, MYSTIC BLUE ON BLACK/ALUM, STEP, NAV, PDC, CWP, XENON, SIRIUS, ALARM, MUD GUARDS, CLEARBRA, CHROME GRILLS AND TIPS, VALENTINE 1 (HARDWIRED), HO CERAMIC 40%, 161'S, REAR FOG MOD, LUX 4.0, BLACKLINES, OEM PEDALS, MTEC FOGS, GRUPPE-M REP INTAKE. 156'S AND RUBBER MATS FOR THE WINTER.
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10-06-2007, 02:05 PM	#9
Spool ****** 555 Rep 6,169 Posts Drives: A few Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: DC Metro iTrader: (24)	Good one man...but i don't know where to go to find the fender roller here... I doubt autozone or pepboys carry this? __________________ MKIV 6spd 1000hp Club
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10-06-2007, 02:23 PM	#10
EastCoast335i Colonel 94 Rep 2,160 Posts Drives: 2015 X5 \| 2008 335i Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: NJ iTrader: (4)	Great DIY... If it hasnt already been done can this be added to the DIY section
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10-07-2007, 12:36 PM	#12
nmulax Brigadier General 378 Rep 4,320 Posts Drives: '07 Z4 M Coupe Join Date: May 2006 Location: Metro-Detroit iTrader: (5) Garage List 2007 Z4M Coupé [7.66]	awesome write-up and looks great. __________________
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10-10-2007, 12:55 PM	#15
Bimmer335i07 BK Employee of the month! / Moderator 635 Rep 15,795 Posts Drives: BMW 335i Sedan Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: ... iTrader: (9) Garage List 2007 335i [0.00]	Nice job Alex! __________________ Sponsored by: Pics of the ---> Barbera Beast <--- Martino Auto Concepts (Like them on Facebook MAC) Factory Trained & Authorized by BMW of North America Matt@Camber-Toe (Like them on Facebook Camber-Toe) LuxAngelEyes (Like them on Facebook LuxAngelEyes) LTBMW (Like them on Facebook LTBMW) OEMconcepts (Like them on Facebook OEMconcepts)
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10-10-2007, 01:10 PM	#16
BavDom 62 Rep 1,262 Posts Drives: 2006 330i Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: USA iTrader: (6)	Very nice DIY Hyper, expected from someone like you
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10-10-2007, 05:10 PM	#18
NavyBusa Enlisted Member 0 Rep 31 Posts Drives: 2007 335i Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Carmel, CA iTrader: (1)	The Eastwood roller is on sale right now for $199.00 if anyone wants to pick one up.
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12-22-2007, 12:26 PM	#20
Spool ****** 555 Rep 6,169 Posts Drives: A few Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: DC Metro iTrader: (24)	I just bought an Eastwood fender roller kit... Gonna try this, im rubbing right now...digging up DIY __________________ MKIV 6spd 1000hp Club
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12-22-2007, 05:51 PM	#21
cycler Major General 137 Rep 8,067 Posts Drives: 2011 Streetglide and 2011 Dyna Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Long Island NY iTrader: (0)	If I didnt something like that ide probably ruin my fenders.
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06-06-2009, 01:17 AM	#22
hasrice MOAR POWERRRR 29 Rep 823 Posts Drives: e92 Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: warehouse iTrader: (5)	damn nice job, it looks like now you can get an even wider wheel in there. HAHA!
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