[jasonat]

Hey guys,

This last Friday, while trying to get to a 12 hour work shift on time, I turned left at ~20km/h. I caught black ice, skid to the side of the road (1-2 meters) and hit the curb. Fenders and doors are untouched, you can judge the hit yourself. The front wheel turn is mirroring the other wheel. Essentially they look mildly like this \---/

I'm a new driver, 22 years old student, and saved for 1.5 years to afford this guy. My insurance right now is at 327/month, or 3924/year. This is my first accident and luckily I have not injured anyone.

I've spoken to ICBC (our Canadian, monopolistic BC insurance company) that advised me that this would cost me $7,000. Of course, I've looked into fixing the issue myself and here's what BMW quoted me for parts alone:

1 31-21-6-765-157 WHEEL HUB WITH B 1 344.25 344.25 2
2 31-12-6-770-850 WISHBONE, RIGHT 1 165.75 165.75 2
3 33-30-6-787-062 COMBINATION NUT 1 4.81 4.81 2
4 31-10-6-763-928 HEX BOLT WITH WA 1 11.79 11.79 2
5 33-32-6-760-668 SELF-LOCKING COL 1 4.26 4.26 2
6 32-10-6-765-236 RIGHT TIE ROD 1 161.50 161.50 2
7 33-30-6-787-062 COMBINATION NUT 1 4.81 4.81 2
8 32-10-6-765-234 REPAIR KIT BELLO 1 67.15 67.15 2
9 36-11-6-783-628 LIGHT ALLOY RIM 1 357.94 357.94 2
10 33-31-6-783-713 REAR AXLE CARRIE 1 1122.00 1122.00 2
11 33-41-6-762-317 ANGULAR CONTACT 1 110.50 110.50 2
12 33-40-6-799-223 COLLAR NUT 1 7.91 7.91 2
13 33-21-7-561-792 EXCHANGE OUTPUT 1 688.50 140.00 828.50 2
14 33-10-7-633-769 GASKET SET DIFFE 1 24.86 24.86 2
15 34-21-6-792-240 PROTECTION PLATE 1 28.72 28.72 2
16 07-11-9-904-511 HEX BOLT WITH WA 4 1.73 6.92 2
17 34-21-1-164-044 HEX BOLT 4 4.26 17.04 2
18 33-52-6-796-157 SHOCK ABSORBER, 1 189.60 189.60 2
19 33-32-6-772-899 ROLL-OVER STRUT 1 191.25 191.25 2
20 33-30-6-760-349 SELF-LOCKING COL 1 5.81 5.81 2
21 33-30-6-786-187 ECCENTRIC FLAT W 1 4.23 4.23 2
22 33-30-6-784-983 ECCENTRIC BOLT 1 13.45 13.45 2
23 07-11-9-906-489 HEXAGON SCREW WI 1 5.66 5.66 2
24 33-32-6-763-092 RUBBER MOUNTING 1 26.35 26.35 2
25 33-30-6-760-349 SELF-LOCKING COL 1 5.81 5.81 2
26 33-32-6-792-553 BALL JOINT 1 49.30 49.30 2
27 33-32-6-783-654 WHEEL CARRIER, R 1 684.25 684.25 2
28 33-32-6-763-477 TRAILING ARM 1 55.25 55.25 2
29 33-32-6-762-875 HEX SCREW WITH C 1 10.57 10.57 2
30 33-32-6-760-668 SELF-LOCKING COL 1 4.26 4.26 2
31 33-32-6-760-668 SELF-LOCKING COL 1 4.26 4.26 2
32 07-11-9-906-489 HEXAGON SCREW WI 1 5.66 5.66 2
33 33-32-6-763-471 TRACK STRUT WITH 1 73.95 73.95 2
34 33-30-6-793-891 SECURING BOLT 1 8.11 8.11 2
35 33-32-6-764-292 ECCENTRIC BOLT 1 14.14 14.14 2
36 33-30-6-786-186 ECCENTRIC FLAT W 1 4.23 4.23 2
37 33-32-6-760-668 SELF-LOCKING COL 1 4.26 4.26 2
38 33-32-6-782-238 GUIDE ROD B 1 157.25 157.25 2
39 33-30-6-793-891 SECURING BOLT 1 8.11 8.11 2
40 33-32-6-760-668 SELF-LOCKING COL 1 4.26 4.26 2
41 07-11-9-906-489 HEXAGON SCREW WI 1 5.66 5.66 2
42 33-32-6-777-980 WISHBONE, REAR 1 187.00 187.00 2
43 33-32-6-760-668 SELF-LOCKING COL 1 4.26 4.26 2
44 07-11-9-906-489 HEXAGON SCREW WI 1 5.66 5.66 2
45 36-12-2-259-320 205/55R16 TURANZ 1 287.86 287.86 2

TOTAL IS $5553.63


If BMW were to fix this, it would cost me over $10,000.

I'm looking for some advice. Am I able to get aftermarket parts? Where from?
What on earth can I do?

Thank you for your time, I truly appreciate it.
Jason

Hope your frame rails didn't get bent because that is going to get really expensive, nothing you can do, go through your insurance and get it fixed, its going to cost a shit load of money to fix it yourself.

Judging by all damage on the rear wheel, most of the control arms are likely bent, your diff could be damaged internally, steering rack could be damaged, impossible to tell until the car is put on a lift.

[NocturnalEVO]

Go thru ur collision coverage.

[woodpecka]

Use your insurance...this exist for this kind of situation.

[Meeni]

Why not just claiming your insurance and let them take care of it ?

Otherwise, Miele and other OE type brands are 1/2 the price and are the OEM suppliers. You get the same part, with the BMW logo filed out.

Do not buy a Turanza tire. It is an extremely poorly performing tire. Take it as an occation to upgrade to non-RFT proper tires (conti DWS as an example, since you run in hard climate) and a set of 4 aftermarket wheels (like VMR or something similar) will cost 1/2 the price of a single OEM wheel.

[jasonat]

Hey guys, thank you for your responses!

The reason why I'm trying to avoid the insurance company is because
1. My insurance would raise from 327 to 533 a month for 3 years. (Total damage = 7k)
2. I thought I could get another shop to do the work for cheaper than BMW themselves

[NocturnalEVO]

Here's what I would do...

Find a bodyshop you trust who's willing to work with you.
File through your collision coverage, but have them send the adjuster to your bodyshop.
There, your bodyshop can control the estimate with the adjuster.

You don't have to go through the BMW dealership at all.
BMW would typically outsource the work to a bodyshop anyways.

[Meeni]

Originally Posted by jasonat

Hey guys, thank you for your responses!

The reason why I'm trying to avoid the insurance company is because
1. My insurance would raise from 327 to 533 a month for 3 years. (Total damage = 7k)
2. I thought I could get another shop to do the work for cheaper than BMW themselves

So basically they are going to "finance" your repairs rather than pay for them. It is obvious that your comprehensive coverage has no value whatsoever. You cannot claim it, if you do you loose money. So just stop paying for this valueless proposition and save 200 a month. Get liability coverage only.

You may actually look at what are your prospect for claiming the current repair on your insurance, and then immediately after switch to liability only.

[Efthreeoh]

I'm not sure an accident caused by black ice is covered by comprehensive coverage. It's unfortunate that the OP hit black ice and slid into the curb, but comprehensive insurance coverage usually doesn't cover this type of accident, since it is up to the driver to drive in an adequate manner for the conditions.

[Three_thirty_I]

You are in a bit of a catch-22 situation unfortunately - just a rough calculation based on what your insurance is and would become, the amount is close to the repair cost, well actually a bit more. But, here is what I would do:

Take the car to a repair shop that is good and trustworthy at performing proper quality repairs and have them give you a quote to fix this using OEM and aftermarket parts. Chances are there are many parts listed in the above break-down that are perfectly fine and reusable, but then as also said above, there are still potentially "hidden" issues which can and usually do become costly!

From what I see in the pics, the majority of the damage is front suspension which does (like any suspension) have pre-designed weak spots to absorb damage, but, the rear suspension is a bit tougher and would have sustained lateral impact which is quite bad since the energy is transferred to the subframe and diff essentially, so this would have to be checked. On the plus side, the rear wheel does not seem to be "pushed in" much, so you might be lucky!

Now the other issue is that when replacing suspension components, especially things like struts, it is better to replace both on the same axle, to a degree the same with regards to some other suspension components, in particular things like bushes etc, so consider this too.

In the end, you are doing the right thing by investigating and getting as much advice as you can! Cars are fixable, just the cost that dictates the viability of it.

[jasonat]

You guys are amazing, thank you for your advice!
Like you said, BMW does outsource all of the work (I had no idea), so I found this shop, DC motorworks in Vancouver that has good reviews.
The tech advised me that he could get used parts for some of the units, which is great! He estimated costs $3k for the parts and $1k for labor. You may sound suspicious of such drastic drop in price, as do I, but reviews do seem very good.

I will definitely bring up the issue of fixing things symmetrically next time I see him.

Thank you guys for your help, I will keep you posted
Jason

[Chriztofor]

OP: If you are not going through your insurance I would just replace the 2 rims and 2 tires and see how it rides. You may even want to go to junkyards to see if you can find matching rims . If everything feels fine, then get clips for the skirt. Don't assume the worst.

[Three_thirty_I]

I don't think the car would be drivable with just the two wheels replaced - OP said that the front wheels are currently like this \---/ . In other words, massive negative toe! But I do agree that it would be more cost effective to replace the wheels with a set of used wheels, or if one could find two of the same for the right side. Some used suspension parts provided they are not damaged or worn is also fine. It's really a case of looking at each part needed for replacement and finding the best replacement option in terms of function and of course cost. Definitely a case of seeing the positive rather than focus on the bad!

[Chriztofor]

Originally Posted by Three_thirty_I

I don't think the car would be drivable with just the two wheels replaced - OP said that the front wheels are currently like this \---/ . In other words, massive negative toe! But I do agree that it would be more cost effective to replace the wheels with a set of used wheels, or if one could find two of the same for the right side. Some used suspension parts provided they are not damaged or worn is also fine. It's really a case of looking at each part needed for replacement and finding the best replacement option in terms of function and of course cost. Definitely a case of seeing the positive rather than focus on the bad!

Didn't see that part. If that is the case it may just be the lower control arm. Autohaus sells an entire front end kit for around $350 with a lifetime warranty. www.autohausaz.com/bmw-auto-parts

The problem is that the body shop is probably making money on the parts too so who knows if they will agree to discount their part list in place of autohaus. I personally would go through the insurance and make them replace that entire part list. Whether you pay for it out of pocket now or pay for it over time (through higher premiums) it all amounts to the same thing. Anyway, good luck OP. Keep us posted.

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by Chriztofor

Didn't see that part. If that is the case it may just be the lower control arm. Autohaus sells an entire front end kit for around $350 with a lifetime warranty. www.autohausaz.com/bmw-auto-parts

The problem is that the body shop is probably making money on the parts too so who knows if they will agree to discount their part list in place of autohaus. I personally would go through the insurance and make them replace that entire part list. Whether you pay for it out of pocket now or pay for it over time (through higher premiums) it all amounts to the same thing. Anyway, good luck OP. Keep us posted.

Yep, lower control arm and possibly the tie rod end.

Very good point and worth considering indeed!!

[Jase 320d]

Change alloys to nicer ones, might as well uprate £500-1000
Fix sideskirt
And id imaging the front is just a bent wishbone / track rod


Would not cost a lot to fix at all

[vanondemand]

Damn that sucks dude.

[spuntyb]

Originally Posted by NocturnalEVO

Here's what I would do...

Find a bodyshop you trust who's willing to work with you.
File through your collision coverage, but have them send the adjuster to your bodyshop.
There, your bodyshop can control the estimate with the adjuster.

You don't have to go through the BMW dealership at all.
BMW would typically outsource the work to a bodyshop anyways.

This +1.

[XM_Rocks]

Originally Posted by jasonat

Hey guys, thank you for your responses!

The reason why I'm trying to avoid the insurance company is because
1. My insurance would raise from 327 to 533 a month for 3 years. (Total damage = 7k)
2. I thought I could get another shop to do the work for cheaper than BMW themselves

Are you forced to only use your current insurance?

I don't know much about Canadian insurance rates but a $2400 hike per year after a minor no fault type accident seems silly high.

As an example I pay $390 for 6 months of full coverage on my wifes car and my 335i. That works our to ~$60 a month.

Do you have prior accidents or driving infractions?

[jasonat]

Hey Everyone!

First of - you guys are awesome, thank you all for your advices!
The tech place was great, for 4K they have fixed my car! Although I do have a strange rumble in my LEFT wheel bearing now, but after contacting BMW, it is covered by my additional, comprehensive warranty. I will see them tomorrow morning, but besides that, the job was done well by Derek at DC Motorworks in Vancouver. (Anyone in the area, I do suggest him).

Now, time to dig deep into my ass and pull out 4 grand. Hey, it isn't 10.

Thank you everyone!

[Three_thirty_I]

Awesome!! Really glad that you managed to get it sorted out for a reasonably better amount of money!! Hope you get that noisy wheel bearing sorted though.

[SP3333D]

Originally Posted by XM_Rocks

Are you forced to only use your current insurance?

I don't know much about Canadian insurance rates but a $2400 hike per year after a minor no fault type accident seems silly high.

As an example I pay $390 for 6 months of full coverage on my wifes car and my 335i. That works our to ~$60 a month.

Do you have prior accidents or driving infractions?

I agree, I don't understand why it would go up so much? I pay about $90/mo for full coverage with comprehensive collision on my 328xi with $0 deductibles and million dollar liabilities. I made a dozen claims on it last year for various damages and the only thing that affected it was a $10,000 claim from being rear-ended. I lost a "good claims history" discount and my rate went up $5/mo...