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05-10-2026LAST POST
JustIncredibleBMW wroteThat's a great deal as I know buddies of mine paid a lot more.I bought the exhaust trim pieces to replace on my own, and then decided to just have the dealership do it. They charged me $90, so glad I went that route...
https://g07.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1736184
jmciver wroteMan you really make me want to try this again on my car. I was unsuccessful the first 3 times I tried. I just couldn't for the life of me get to the blind screws except for one. Even with the tools you recommended I just don't get how anyone was able to fit their hands in such a tight spot with the tool and take all the screws out. Obviously, there has been success stories like yourself but I can't figure out why I can't get it done. And I'm super reluctant to go and pay several hundreds to get it professionally installed by a shop that I've been just sitting on these exhaust tips.So I thought I would bump this thread to say thanks to the Op and the other contributors as it helped me do this DIY on my X7, which is very similar to the X5. I did a DIY on the G07 forum and due to the similarities (and additional pics I took) I figured I would post it here as an additional reference for those who may still want to attempt this DIY....
https://g07.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1736184
G050i wroteI took mine off, sand blasted and powder coated gloss black. I will admit it took me a couple of hours to figure out how to get to everything, scratched my arms up pretty good. But I had them re-installed in 20 minutes and now that I know how to get to the screws I think i could have them out (both) in less then 30 minutes. I found the screw on the outside to be the hardest to do. The blind one up top and the other one just below that top one to the inside were really easy once I knew where they were. Note that I did NOT remove anything but the plastic pieces underneath. I did not pull apart or undo any heat shields, harnesses nothing. I don't have huge arms and hands, pretty much a normal size dude. Anyone near the South Bend Indiana area that wants to pull them off... I am always happy to helpMan you really make me want to try this again on my car. I was unsuccessful the first 3 times I tried. I just couldn't for the life of me get to the blind screws except for one. Even with the tools you recommended I just don't get how anyone was able to fit their hands in such a tight spot with the tool and take all the screws out. Obviously, there has been success stories like yourself but I can't figure out why I can't get it done. And I'm super reluctant to go and pay several hundreds to get it professionally installed by a shop that I've been just sitting on these exhaust tips.
G050i wroteI was perplexed a bit at first, too. But after looking at the diagram from the factory procedure for a while (the one I included in my DIY and is also in this thread), I was able to locate two of the three plastic "nutcerts" that are moulded into the plastic carrier for the trim piece. Once I found them when looking at the X7 from below (you can actually see the screw poke through a bit), getting to the blind screw heads and using the right tool was more straight forward. That was why I included the pic with those plastic nutcerts circled (viewed from outside the vehicle) so they would be easier to locate when under the vehicle.Man you really make me want to try this again on my car. I was unsuccessful the first 3 times I tried. I just couldn't for the life of me get to the blind screws except for one. Even with the tools you recommended I just don't get how anyone was able to fit their hands in such a tight spot with the tool and take all the screws out. Obviously, there has been success stories like yourself but I can't figure out why I can't get it done. And I'm super reluctant to go and pay several hundreds to get it professionally installed by a shop that I've been just sitting on these exhaust tips.
And for those who want to go the "paint them yourself" route instead of buying the shadow line ones, but don't want to do that to your original set, I will let mine go for pretty cheap.....
jmciver wroteYou and Rayovac inspires me to try again. I'll give it another college try this weekend. I hope I don't give up from frustration to fast. Lol.I was perplexed a bit at first, too. But after looking at the diagram from the factory procedure for a while (the one I included in my DIY and is also in this thread), I was able to locate two of the three plastic "nutcerts" that are moulded into the plastic carrier for the trim piece. Once I found them when looking at the X7 from below (you can actually see the screw poke through a bit), getting to the blind screw heads and using the right tool was more straight forward. That was why I included the pic with those plastic nutcerts circled (viewed from outside the vehicle) so they would be easier to locate when under the vehicle.
And for those who want to go the "paint them yourself" route instead of buying the shadow line ones, but don't want to do that to your original set, I will let mine go for pretty cheap.....
In terms of what you're both saying it all makes sense and if I remember correctly I've been able to physically locate all the 3 screws with my fingers before but it's getting a tool in there and loosening them that trips me up. Either way I'll try again and fingers crossed. I really hate having the chrome tips on my 50i when everything else is shadowlined.
Thanks again guys:thumsup:
G050i wroteYeah, again... those ones to the outside edge in my opinion are by far the hardest. They are hard to get a socket on, hard to keep the socket on while you turn the ratchet.. just plain hard. But again, once you get it while the socket slips off now and then, it gets easier to find the sweet spot to get it back on. Now I don't know if the back is different when you have hitch vs. no hitch, but for that top blind one I pretty much enter my hand arm near the middle of the car and reach up and over from that point... if that makes sense. There is a lot of room from that point, almost bury past my elbow with my whole arm up in there. Because of this ability, the EASIEST of the three is that top blind one. I can have that one out in less than a minute. And almost the same way I can get that one down lower beneath it... not quite as easy as being lower I can't reach it quite the same way from that center entering of my arm... but it still pretty easy. Give it a go, you will figure it out.You and Rayovac inspires me to try again. I'll give it another college try this weekend. I hope I don't give up from frustration to fast. Lol.
In terms of what you're both saying it all makes sense and if I remember correctly I've been able to physically locate all the 3 screws with my fingers before but it's getting a tool in there and loosening them that trips me up. Either way I'll try again and fingers crossed. I really hate having the chrome tips on my 50i when everything else is shadowlined.
Thanks again guys:thumsup:
RayoVac wroteI agree with everything you said here as my methods and experience were almost identical. I will add that when I did get to the two inboard screws using the method described above, this was where the stubby ratchet wrench proved it's worth. The short length of the stubby made easy work of both of those screws.Yeah, again... those ones to the outside edge in my opinion are by far the hardest. They are hard to get a socket on, hard to keep the socket on while you turn the ratchet.. just plain hard. But again, once you get it while the socket slips off now and then, it gets easier to find the sweet spot to get it back on. Now I don't know if the back is different when you have hitch vs. no hitch, but for that top blind one I pretty much enter my hand arm near the middle of the car and reach up and over from that point... if that makes sense. There is a lot of room from that point, almost bury past my elbow with my whole arm up in there. Because of this ability, the EASIEST of the three is that top blind one. I can have that one out in less than a minute. And almost the same way I can get that one down lower beneath it... not quite as easy as being lower I can't reach it quite the same way from that center entering of my arm... but it still pretty easy. Give it a go, you will figure it out.
RayoVac wroteDid you do it on a 50i or 40i? I'm wondering since the 50i is dual exhaust that makes it more cramped vs the single? Just throwing darts with that theory but I will give it another try for sure now. Thanks again for the detailed explanation.Yeah, again... those ones to the outside edge in my opinion are by far the hardest. They are hard to get a socket on, hard to keep the socket on while you turn the ratchet.. just plain hard. But again, once you get it while the socket slips off now and then, it gets easier to find the sweet spot to get it back on. Now I don't know if the back is different when you have hitch vs. no hitch, but for that top blind one I pretty much enter my hand arm near the middle of the car and reach up and over from that point... if that makes sense. There is a lot of room from that point, almost bury past my elbow with my whole arm up in there. Because of this ability, the EASIEST of the three is that top blind one. I can have that one out in less than a minute. And almost the same way I can get that one down lower beneath it... not quite as easy as being lower I can't reach it quite the same way from that center entering of my arm... but it still pretty easy. Give it a go, you will figure it out.
G050i wroteI did it on a 40i, but looking at the difference in the piping and muffler on on the 40i vs. 50i, I am not sure it would change a lot. I mean in my case, I were I was reaching was not really near the pipe... but granted with the 50i there would be two in the same space I had one.... but again, not sure it would have made much difference in where I had to reach. It would be interesting for you to take pictures with the plastic shields removed looking up to compare to what I dealt with.Did you do it on a 50i or 40i? I'm wondering since the 50i is dual exhaust that makes it more cramped vs the single? Just throwing darts with that theory but I will give it another try for sure now. Thanks again for the detailed explanation.
RayoVac wroteJust gave this a go and I was successful. Just shoved my hand in there further to feel for the 2nd and 3rd blind screws. I was happy to be able to take those off but struggled a bit with actually pulling the tip out bc of the top larger tab.I did it on a 40i, but looking at the difference in the piping and muffler on on the 40i vs. 50i, I am not sure it would change a lot. I mean in my case, I were I was reaching was not really near the pipe... but granted with the 50i there would be two in the same space I had one.... but again, not sure it would have made much difference in where I had to reach. It would be interesting for you to take pictures with the plastic shields removed looking up to compare to what I dealt with.
Here is the sad part... I went to grab the new tip and as I placed it on it wouldn't fit and I tried this like 3 times to finally realize it was the wrong frigging tip, it was for the 40i. Wanted to cry. Ordered so long ago so can't tell if I messed up. Or I was sent wrong part.. Hahaha. I guess the good that came out of this is I can do both sides in probably an hour next time. Also, what I learned is that you can actually keep the screws in but just loosened enough so the tips can come out. That way when putting everything back the screws are already lined up and ready and one less headache in trying to hold onto.
PSA: I have a complete new set of 40i shadow line exhaust tips. OEM bought from bmwpartspro.com. I'll also post on the members ads section. Just PM me of interested. Willing to let go for less than retail plus shipping.
keeva381 wroteCheck this thread:Does anyone have a link to buy the gloss black tips for G06? Or is there a way to paint the chrome ones (and by paint I mean a DIY, not sandblasting since I'm not sure how to do that haha)?
https://g05.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1759422
UltraDave Might have some tips and trix for you.
Just finished installing the exhaust covers on my 2019 X5 (G05) with the trailer hitch.
I used jmciever's directions in the G07 forms and it took me about 1.5 hours without removing the bumper. The anatomy of the X5 is pretty much identical to the X7.
The process was actually relatively easy considering my dealer wanted to charge me 2.5 hours at $167/hr to install them by dropping the bumper.
A few notes...in the G07 forum, jmciever mentions he used an 8mm and 10mm socket. I was set to use both of those but discovered in my G05, I needed a 7mm (for the 8mm bolts) and 11mm (for the 10mm bolts) instead.
Also...when it comes time to pull out the cover, you will need to slightly bend the "L-shaped" tab on the top to maneuver it out of the space. DO NOT force it. It will come out. Forcing may crack the plastic seats in the bumper for the covers' bolt tabs. Just make sure to painter-tape the area of the bumper really well and you'll be good!
pilotboy172 wroteGlad it worked out for you and that my G07 DIY helped. Although, in all the years I have worked on my BMWs, I have never seen BMW use a 7mm or 11mm nut/bolt - at least not in the undercarriage area of the cars, which is where this work was done….Hey all!
Just finished installing the exhaust covers on my 2019 X5 (G05) with the trailer hitch.
I used jmciever's directions in the G07 forms and it took me about 1.5 hours without removing the bumper. The anatomy of the X5 is pretty much identical to the X7.
The process was actually relatively easy considering my dealer wanted to charge me 2.5 hours at $167/hr to install them by dropping the bumper.
A few notes...in the G07 forum, jmciever mentions he used an 8mm and 10mm socket. I was set to use both of those but discovered in my G05, I needed a 7mm (for the 8mm bolts) and 11mm (for the 10mm bolts) instead.
Also...when it comes time to pull out the cover, you will need to slightly bend the "L-shaped" tab on the top to maneuver it out of the space. DO NOT force it. It will come out. Forcing may crack the plastic seats in the bumper for the covers' bolt tabs. Just make sure to painter-tape the area of the bumper really well and you'll be good!
