35.9KVIEWS
65REPLIES
24APPRECIATES
17ACTIVE PEOPLE
01-16-2026LAST POST
barrowdad wroteI want to remove the D-pillar trim because I think it's the source of a rattle when music is playing. I have some trim removal tools, but I'm chicken when it comes to removing trim because I don't want to break any clips, etc. and make matters worse. Any tips to removing this trim?I've recently installed a Thinkware F770 dual camera Dashcam in my 2019 X5 30D M Sport (RHD) and this video may help others intending to do something similar (especially useful for running the rear camera onto the the tailgate).
barrowdad wroteYou've given me confidence! Thanks!When I popped mine I just inserted a wide bladed trim tool in the middle top and gently applied leverage. It came away quite easily. Have faith!
barrowdad wroteThanks to you I was able to have the confidence to pop those D-pillar trim pieces off. Was able to add dynamat to those pieces and how have zero rattles. Thanks so much for that!When I popped mine I just inserted a wide bladed trim tool in the middle top and gently applied leverage. It came away quite easily. Have faith!
Thanks for the video.
I took exactly the same way last year to install my Blackvue double channel in my G05. Otherwise, I prefered to took 12V in the trunk fuse box, much more easy to change the input power between car and external battery. It means just an additional cable between trunk and glove box where I installed a Multisafer to cut the power when the car battery reachs 12.1V.
https://www.ebay.fr/itm/MS-MultiSafer-VU-Version2-FS-FineSafer-MotoPark-Low-Voltage-CUT-OFF-Hard-Wire/331630358729?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
barrowdad wroteA HUGE thank you to barrowdad - based on your excellent video and commentary I felt confident to do the job myself! I installed a thinkware f800 pro. It went very smooth and I routed the wires identically to yours. I had your video queued and played over and over in the garage while installing. Front camera and power took about an hour. Rear about 2. Much like you I was dreading the rear wire routing but it wasn't too bad, hopefully my grommet doesn't leak in the back. And I avoided problems thanks to you!Thanks for your comments. As I explained in the intro to the video the rear fuse box was going to be my preferred option because (as you pointed out) access is easier than the front fuse box. In my case my Dashcam has a built-in power monitor and cut-off so I didn't need a separate battery voltage cut-off device but other readers may find your link useful if they need one so thanks again.
Have you gotten any "battery low" messages due to the 10 minute delay of the ACC power after engine shutoff?
It’s typical for the cams to be ‘professionally’ installed on this side of the globe, but they essentially ran the same line and equally complained about how hard it is to get the cables from the rear (D?) pillar into the tube that connects to the boot lid for this G05.
Edit: sorry only realised afterwards this was a June thread...
barrowdad wroteAnother option for the running the rear cable for those who don't feel comfortable making the hole larger or don't want to pop off the d-pillar panel is to go through the headliner. Peel down the headliner and you will see a round black rubber cap (similar to the one on the left side of the hatch if you pause the video at 8:30). Remove the round rubber cap, poke a hole through it and feed the cable through, then pop the cap back into place. Also comes out the same place. If you have some sealant, you can seal the cap back up after all the cables have been run and you don't need to make any more adjustments.I've recently installed a Thinkware F770 dual camera Dashcam in my 2019 X5 30D M Sport (RHD) and this video may help others intending to do something similar (especially useful for running the rear camera onto the the tailgate).
I ran down the A-pillar behind the airbag into the passenger kick panel. For the rear camera I ran in the headliner, then used the factory rubber grommets into the upper hatch. Took some fishing, but everything is in the factory run paths and obviously a very clean install. I did not have to cut or poke holes into anything. I just popped the rubber guide out of the hatch and car, then fed from the car out, then through the grommet and then into the hatch itself.
If you use one of the wire grabbers this like this, it's super easy to get it through things like the factory wiring paths and around the airbags.
hyde wroteuse F27 in the front panel, it's most likely un-used.This is one of the best videos. Just a question on the fuses, you mentioned 38 and 61. Were those empty fuse slots, and which one is switched? I only need switched fuse in the front. Thanks!
chrisnack wroteThanks but earlier you mentioned F27 is battery power, so it's constant. I need switched only to prevent battery drain (dumb camera setup) you mentioned F72 is microfuse, does this mean smaller fuse?use F27 in the front panel, it's most likely un-used.
chrisnack wroteWith fuse tap, you mean it's just adding add'l slot to the fuse slot so 2 fuses can be hooked up?You can grab a fuse tap from autozone or the like, if you only need one it’s worth paying the extra. If you think you will need more then order from Amazon or something to get a pack of them.
My dashcam hard wire came with a fuse at the end, so all I need to do is just plug it into an empty slot. Fuse taps I saw have a pigtail that I would need to wire. It means I have to cut the fuse off the hard wire kit?
This is what I have:
https://www.amazon.com/Rexing-Mini-USB-Hardwire-Generation-Dash/dp/B01LXC2329
It comes with 10 Amp mini fuse hard wired to the kit.
The main issue I see is they didn’t give you much room with that short ground lug. So you will have to cut some of that shrink tubing or whatever to get some more length on that ground wire. There is a ground lug below the fuse box you can use.
chrisnack wroteThanks Chris,Yes the fuse taps allow you to piggyback on the fuse spot and keep the original fuse.
The main issue I see is they didn’t give you much room with that short ground lug. So you will have to cut some of that shrink tubing or whatever to get some more length on that ground wire. There is a ground lug below the fuse box you can use.
Oh yes, that's exactly what I did, I cut the casing(?) and then used electrical tape to secure it at ideal length. I am seeing several empty fuse slots, instead of cutting this and doing tap (I don't want to mess with existing fuses), can I just use one of the empty slots, preferably one that has optional equipment that I don't have, and switched power.
