11-03-2020, 10:03 AM | #23 |
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It's definitely a bug, the switchback to 6A happens at competely random moments, and I only charge at my 16A home charger the past few weeks.
However, I'm not completely sure yet if it actually limits the charging to 6A, or still charges at 16A even though the screen says 6A. |
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11-03-2020, 10:54 AM | #24 | |
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11-03-2020, 10:54 AM | #25 | |
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11-03-2020, 11:00 AM | #26 | ||
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I am not sure about this but maybe the max amp is only when using the basic charger and not if it is plugged in to a wall charger? From my experience anyway the car can communicated with the charger and automatically set it to 16A if the charger allows. Edit. Just reviewed the manual. The max. charging current setting is only for mode 2 charging (= basic charger). |
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11-03-2020, 11:08 AM | #27 | |
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That's what I'm suspecting. Maybe one of these days, I will plug in the basic charger and see what happened. Edit: Thanks for checking the manual! I think the only thing I am worried about is the impact it has on the battery's life and charge cycles if it is constantly being charged at max amp. Last edited by amus3d; 11-03-2020 at 11:10 AM.. Reason: Thanks for checking the manual, X5 45e! |
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11-03-2020, 11:12 AM | #28 | ||
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Edit. Just reviewed the manual. The max. charging current setting is only for mode 2 charging (= basic charger). So if you plug in the normal charger it should be at 12A and a really long charging time. |
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11-03-2020, 11:57 AM | #29 |
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I'm only guessing here, but if you think that today's EV's can charge the battery in less than an hour, charging our 45e in six hours should be pretty easy on the battery.
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11-03-2020, 04:03 PM | #30 |
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In the USA, you have two settings to limit the charging rate...one when it is using 120vac and a second one when using 240vac.
The only reason BMW allows you to set the charging rate lower than maximum, is that the device might be on a shared circuit, and pulling its maximum might cause the protection circuits in your home to trip. It could be useful if you have a solar cell system, and you don't want to use grid power, so you'd limit the maximum. You cannot damage your EVSE or the vehicle with correctly working devices on both ends. The EVSE shouldn't be plugged into wiring (or hardwired) that cannot handle its maximum output safely. Assuming that's true, when the EVSE sends out its pilot signal, that indicated to the vehicle how much power it is ALLOWED to use. THen, the vehicle will pull what it wants never exceeding what it was told was available, or was told via the iDrive menu up to that. It's a pretty foolproof system. So, the only reason to drop the maximum in iDrive is if that would cause the EVSE on a shared circuit to overload things. In the US, say in your garage, you may have it plugged in, and that same circuit might power your garage door opener, or you are using some power tools. Then, you may want to tell the vehicle to not pull max out of the thing, otherwise, you might pop the breaker. Fuses and circuit breakers (at least in the USA) are there to protect the wiring, not the device specifically. On a device that has an internal fuse, that is different, and that is trying to protect the device from overload. WIth a working device, you can't overload an EVSE, or damage the vehicle. Maybe another good example is to consider your vehicle as a smart device...you can plug a 50w lamp into a circuit that could handle a couple of thousand watts...nothing bad happens. If you were to try to plug a space heater that would try to draw 2000W on one capable of 1500W, you'd pop its breaker. In the case of the EVSE, and the vehicle, they're smarter, and the vehicle can adjust itself to never draw more that the EVSE says it has, or up to whatever you've told it to pull. |
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11-16-2020, 03:51 PM | #31 |
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charging
hi, am new to Bimmerpost and recently picked up my X5 45e. It's an absolutely awesome machine, however there is one thing that confuses me which i hope someone can shed some light on. i have charged my vehicle about 3 times now and the car is only showing a range of 43 miles at 100% charge. i was under the impression that this should be 54 miles as this is what is claimed. Would appreciate some feedback.
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11-16-2020, 06:29 PM | #32 |
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The EV range, just like in any ICE, will vary based on the conditions and how it is driven. The vehicle may have done that in its certification test, but who really drives EXACTLY like that test procedure? Probably nobody. It's a relatively known fact that it is high based on real world usage.
The readout is an estimate based on previous driving, and that can and will change, sometimes drastically, if you say were cruising on the high speed road, versus loafing along a back road at 30-mph or so. It uses about the last 20-miles of travel and assumes you're going to keep doing exactly what you were doing UNLESS you put in a destination to the navigation system...then, it knows the route, the speed limits, and the terrain (elevation changes)...knowing that, it can give you a better estimate of range to empty. |
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11-17-2020, 04:20 PM | #33 |
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people notice if the amprage lowers the closer to the 100%?! This would be by design as you can't expect the same flow as it gets full.
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11-17-2020, 07:49 PM | #34 |
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11-25-2020, 06:47 AM | #36 |
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I appreciate all the posts, we are hoping to take delivery of our 45E next month.
I'm curious if anyone has experience using the adapter that connects to a Tesla charger at 240 Volts? I'm guessing that would cut charging time in half and also reduce my electric bill, for less time plugged in. Or is it a wash since more current is potentially being consumed with the faster charge? |
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11-25-2020, 06:55 AM | #37 | |
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Full charge is 5-6 hours with Tesla charger vs 20 hours with BMW. If you have a Tesla charger installed at home it is really worth using it. Twenty hours is to long. In the US you need a adapter for Tesla in Europe , Tesla destination chargers and BMW both have Mennekes 2. Total electricity bill won't change much I think. Total kWh for a full charge will not differ much. |
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12-30-2020, 07:45 PM | #38 |
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I have a juicebox 40 amp charger. Software updated a few weeks ago. I went back in and set to 16 amp max on the 45e. Sometimes it just goes back to 6 amp. Not sure why. Is anyone else experiencing this after the update?
Thanks, Andrew |
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12-30-2020, 08:32 PM | #39 |
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other threads state this should've been addressed w/the update. what version? i'm on 11/2020.38 in the USA but haven't experienced it (though i'm still using the provided level 1 charger; level 2 EVSE gets installed next week!)
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12-30-2020, 11:29 PM | #40 | |
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Is it solved? Not sure sometimes it didn't happen for weeks before the update. Time will tell. |
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12-31-2020, 07:52 AM | #41 | |
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I have a ChargePoint Flex charger. When I took delivery I set the car to 16 amps. My car was delivered with 07/2020 and now has 11/2020. The car has remained on 16 amps since the day I got it home. Could the issue lie in the EVSE being used? |
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12-31-2020, 05:04 PM | #42 |
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Don't think it's anything related to the EVSE. You could have a 100A capable EVSE, and it would only charge based one what the vehicle was set to (max of 16A on our vehicles).
Each EVSE sends out a pilot signal that announces to the attached vehicle the maximum current it CAN draw, but it has no control over how much it DOES draw. In our vehicles, it seems to arbitrarily, sometimes, reset itself back to 6A with some versions of the firmware in the vehicle. I've noticed that with my 30A EVSE when I wondered why it was taking so long, the vehicle had reset itself back to 6A for some reason. |
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01-01-2021, 04:30 PM | #44 |
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It does sometimes. Suddenly the estimated charge time doubles.
I have had it a couple of times past year. Alway in my own garage. My default is 10 A. When plugging in to a public charger it automatically switches to 16 A and goes back to 10 A after unplugging. The car can change it. |
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