[BringMyWallet!]

Need help. Went to a local service shop that had strong positive reviews, informed me my rear brakes had 7 mm remaining and front brakes/rotors needed replacing ~$1,500.

Stated they would replace with dustless brakes and Zimmerman Cross Drilled rotors, BUT when I came back to pick up the vehicle. They said front brakes are done, but when the Tech went for a test drive your rear sensor went on and you need new rear brakes!

Couple days prior they said I had plenty of brake life remaining on the rears with 6-8MM and upon checking out inform me the complete opposite.

Additionally, upon pickup the rotors weren’t the cross drilled rotors stated.

Lastly, now my vehicle has the red Brake light on and the orange wrench logo. Additionally it feels like my vehicle is driving slow, slower, steering wheel feels noticeably more firm and when in Eco Pro mode my car doesn’t coast like before the front brake job.

Questions:
1) after a brake job is it common for brakes to need a break-in period to “loosen” up? Anyone else experience something similar? Visually looked at the pads and they’re snug on the rotor surfaces. Put the car in neutral and can relatively easily push the car.

2) since I’m now waiting on parts for the rear brakes & rotors, is it common for the red brake light to stay consistently on and wrench light on the dash?

3) what would you expect from the service shop from saying
- you have 7 mm of rear brakes left to two days later upon front replaced you now need new rear brakes?
- we’re ordering & installing cross drilled, but then install standard rotors?

4) my monroney or window sticker indicates option [2NH] M Sport Brakes this is on the 20” M Star Spoke wheels; would this be ceramic pads or semi-metallic? They installed semi metallic and said they’re better/less dust than the OEM.

Really appreciate any and all insight! I read prior posts but weren’t exactly my situation and unclear. Thank you!

[eelnoraa]

Originally Posted by BringMyWallet!

Need help. Went to a local service shop that had strong positive reviews, informed me my rear brakes had 7 mm remaining and front brakes/rotors needed replacing ~$1,500.

Stated they would replace with dustless brakes and Zimmerman Cross Drilled rotors, BUT when I came back to pick up the vehicle. They said front brakes are done, but when the Tech went for a test drive your rear sensor went on and you need new rear brakes!

Couple days prior they said I had plenty of brake life remaining on the rears with 6-8MM and upon checking out inform me the complete opposite.

Additionally, upon pickup the rotors weren’t the cross drilled rotors stated.

Lastly, now my vehicle has the red Brake light on and the orange wrench logo. Additionally it feels like my vehicle is driving slow, slower, steering wheel feels noticeably more firm and when in Eco Pro mode my car doesn’t coast like before the front brake job.

Questions:
1) after a brake job is it common for brakes to need a break-in period to “loosen” up? Anyone else experience something similar? Visually looked at the pads and they’re snug on the rotor surfaces. Put the car in neutral and can relatively easily push the car.

2) since I’m now waiting on parts for the rear brakes & rotors, is it common for the red brake light to stay consistently on and wrench light on the dash?

3) what would you expect from the service shop from saying
- you have 7 mm of rear brakes left to two days later upon front replaced you now need new rear brakes?
- we’re ordering & installing cross drilled, but then install standard rotors?

4) my monroney or window sticker indicates option [2NH] M Sport Brakes this is on the 20” M Star Spoke wheels; would this be ceramic pads or semi-metallic? They installed semi metallic and said they’re better/less dust than the OEM.

Really appreciate any and all insight! I read prior posts but weren’t exactly my situation and unclear. Thank you!

Oh man, I may sound negative, but here is my accessment

1. 7mm remaining is a lot. New brake pad typical have thickness of 10-11mm only. BMW has brake pad wear sensor, it get tripped at about 2mm. So replacing brake at 7mm is entire premature. My question here is, did the brake wore sensor ever come on?

2. Changing brake does NOT affect the power for the steering effect at all. zero in relationship. Brake pad/rotor does need a bit of break in to get max braking performance, but in no way it will affect these two aspect. So it is either in your head, or something else is wrong.

3. Brake warming will lit and stay on IF brake wear sensor is tripped. It is a physical sensor, so it isn't recoverable until the sensor is replaced. It is design this way. Sensor is like a $25 item. In your case, since the front is just done, front sensor cannot be the cause. Check idrive to see if the car says rear brake need replace? There is no common or uncommon, brake wear is highly depend on driving habbit, so everyone is different. However, 6-8mm is not where near the sensor trip thickness.

4. OEM has semi matellic pad, not ceremic.

5. OEM M brake rotor is made by Brembo. Zimmerman is also a good brand, they make lots of OE brake component. I don't think you need to worry about Zimmerman quality. It is for sure less expansive than Brembo rotor tho. I would say don't worry about cross drill, it does nothing good for street usage, maybe look cooler. But it is also noisier. I prefer plain rotor myself for street use, and recreation track use too.

Quick search for cost of Zimmerman M sport rotor, I think it is this:
https://www.bimmerworld.com/Zimmerma...116875283.html

395mm diameter x 36mm thickness. $170 each x 2

OEM Rotor: https://www.bimmerworld.com/Brembo-F...116887398.html
$332 each for reference.


OEM front pad for M sport, this? https://www.bimmerworld.com/OEM-Fron...106888459.html

$260.

Do you know what pad you got? Price can differ widely as you can see in rotor

Tot about ~$600, call it $650 in parts. Rest is shop's fee and labor. Time to complete the front axle brake job, I would say once the car is up on lift or on jack, it is a 30min job with the right tool.

My suggestion
1. Front is already done. It is what it is
2. For Rear, check iDrive. If wear sensor is tripped, it should say. If iDrive doesn't say, maybe the warming light is NOT because of rear brake sensor.
3. Can you visually inspect the rear pads? You can at least see the outer pads on both sides. It is unlikely the inner pads are significantly different unless you brake has issue to begin with. If it is really 6-8mm, I wonder why sensor will tripped.
4. Rear brake will be cheaper than front, so not too much more money by now. I want to sugguest to get a 2nd opinion, but not sure if that is worth your time.

[Vyper340]

Sadly it seems the shop abused you. Rears may have been tampered with to have them signal if in fact the readings previously provided was accurate. I would require readings on the rear again and to have them give/show you the old pads. Rotors do not always need to be replaced unless there are high miles and/or issues on the rotor.

Previous post is good info. Labor hour rates at private shops should be $150/hr ish depending on your area while dealers are >$200/hr.

[BruinMan]

I wouldn’t go back to that shop. They sold you crossed drilled and you didn’t get these. Who knows what brand of rotors or pads they installed.
Seems like a scam shop and now they tell you need rear brakes too.

Go to another shop or can you do this yourself? Not that difficult.

Rock auto has better prices than Bimmerworld and you can order BREMBO ceramic pads to reduce the terrible brake dust.

I hate places that take advantage of people.

[BringMyWallet!]

Yes, really odd and many things don’t make any sense. My front sensors do a countdown for when the front needed replacing like, in 1300 miles you’ll need new pads, then 1200 miles. While at the shop on a “test drive” all of a sudden they say I need new rear pads and my bmw app says I need new pads -12 miles ago.

They replaced the rotors & pads at the cost of just parts ~$750. Said they wouldn’t charge for labor since the mishap on inspection.

Something feels off….but felt hands tied since no place else going to charge for just the parts.

[Ninefourteener]

The tech triggered the ECU to throw lights at you. I would guess it's most likely because he attempted to retract the rear calipers manually (which is fine)... but then screwed up the order of re-setting the rear parking brake.

Your car is likely in a "limp mode" because it is sensing brake issues.

You need to go to BMW... or to a BMW specialist to have those lights reset.

There is likely nothing wrong with your car.... but the computers are very sensitive to change, and will often get triggered by almost nothing.

As far as the wrong rotors are concerned?? Yea.. they ripped you off.