[Andrew@FixMyVW]

Originally Posted by Thecastle

Thank you Andrew for the great install videos and tools. I purchased the crank tool, alternator tool and belt tool. All of them made installation a snap. The only tool I ddint use was the lock,tool a 6mm Allen wrench worked well,for me,

The only comments I have are, you don’t have to remove the ic just disconnect the charge air pipe from the throttle, and the crank tool makes locking the engine and installing belts simple.

Engine runs great with the fluid damper and clutched alternator pully. It actually seems a little smoother than stock. Very happy with the product and install videos.

Also did a coolant flush and thermostat replacement at the same time.

Now on to vacuum hoses ��

Thank you for the great feedback. I've also done this job without removing the intercooler though it put enough stress on the pipe that I was concerned it may be damaged and people would blame me for this.

[Owen81]

I recently completed this as well, big thanks to Andrew for putting together the alternator kit with spacer so fast and making the install videos, they were great!

The engine lock tool didn't quite fit into the lock hole, the hole had a plug so it should have been clean, I just couldn't get it to go in more than a half inch. So I just used an allen key as well.

The crank tool I was sent seemed to be for a different engine, I am getting this sorted out and just ended up turning the engine using the Etorx that fasten the HB to the crank. The torque required to turn the engine was much less than the specified tightening torque on the HB bolts so they shouldn't be over-tightened.

Alternator tool was a great piece for installing the new pulley, I didn't use it for removing as I had a stubby impact that fit in there nicely and made the job quick.

The belt tool worked great, and is a must have! The AC belt was a bit tricky to get centered just right on the AC pulley, so that took some coaxing while turning the engine over.

I decided that since I was in there I would replace the tensioner, tensioner pulley and the idler pulley.
The tensioner is by far the hardest part of this job and added a couple of hours for me. It is located behind everything so I had to undo the alternator and roll that out of the way, then its basically all a blind job getting the tensioner out and back in as you can't see it from the top at all. One major note is that you need to place the tension pulley keeper bolt (#6 here https://goo.gl/zfAupM) into the tensioner before putting it back in as there wasn't clearance to insert it after the tensioner was installed. Also, the tensioner only installs one way, if you get it backwards the shaft of the pulley won't line up with the center of the tensioner!

The idler pulley was easy peasy to install, and the bearing on my old one was completely shot! I would recommend replacing this for sure if you're doing the belts as it takes almost no extra time.

When it was all said and done the belts run very smooth and it seems like the car runs a little smoother as well.

[Andrew@FixMyVW]

Originally Posted by Owen81

I recently completed this as well, big thanks to Andrew for putting together the alternator kit with spacer so fast and making the install videos, they were great!

The engine lock tool didn't quite fit into the lock hole, the hole had a plug so it should have been clean, I just couldn't get it to go in more than a half inch. So I just used an allen key as well.

The crank tool I was sent seemed to be for a different engine, I am getting this sorted out and just ended up turning the engine using the Etorx that fasten the HB to the crank. The torque required to turn the engine was much less than the specified tightening torque on the HB bolts so they shouldn't be over-tightened.

Alternator tool was a great piece for installing the new pulley, I didn't use it for removing as I had a stubby impact that fit in there nicely and made the job quick.

The belt tool worked great, and is a must have! The AC belt was a bit tricky to get centered just right on the AC pulley, so that took some coaxing while turning the engine over.

I decided that since I was in there I would replace the tensioner, tensioner pulley and the idler pulley.
The tensioner is by far the hardest part of this job and added a couple of hours for me. It is located behind everything so I had to undo the alternator and roll that out of the way, then its basically all a blind job getting the tensioner out and back in as you can't see it from the top at all. One major note is that you need to place the tension pulley keeper bolt (#6 here https://goo.gl/zfAupM) into the tensioner before putting it back in as there wasn't clearance to insert it after the tensioner was installed. Also, the tensioner only installs one way, if you get it backwards the shaft of the pulley won't line up with the center of the tensioner!

The idler pulley was easy peasy to install, and the bearing on my old one was completely shot! I would recommend replacing this for sure if you're doing the belts as it takes almost no extra time.

When it was all said and done the belts run very smooth and it seems like the car runs a little smoother as well.

Hey there, I'm really glad to hear that and I'm sorry about the BMW crank tool being incorrect, we attempted to email everyone that bought/rented one about that error, it was incorrectly listed in BMWs tool program and they are accepting all of our returns on those.