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      06-11-2017, 02:50 PM   #1
alvinguy
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Drives: E55 AMG
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Orlando, Fl

iTrader: (0)

2008 E93 M3 Convertible 95k miles 17.5K FIRM

BIMMERPOST / Classifieds
Asking Price:
USD 17,500.00

Location:
✓ Will Ship

Item Interest
For sale is my 2008 BMW E93 M3 convertible. I am pricing it low to get rid of it as is as it has some issues with it. I will more than likely be fixing the issues as I go along, so I will bump up the price as I fix the issues. The ideal buyer for this car would be someone who loves M3s, familiar with it and understands what is going on with the car - if you don't mind doing the work yourself and are somewhat mechanically inclined, then this would be a good buy for you.

Basic stats:
95k miles
ICE cold AC
Jerez Black/Tan Leather Interior/Aluminum dash trim
Macht Schnell track pipes (no cats) - still have oem cats, comes with car
CNT track exhaust (super loud) - currently off the car and put back oem for a nice daily-drivable tone... but if you want to put it back, I am including it with the sale.
Dinan Power Pulley - again, I have the oem parts included if you want to put it back.
DCT 7speed - shifts just fine.
BE Rod Bearings and ARP rod bolts - done less than 500 miles ago
New oil pan gaskets, new motor mounts, oil pan bolts, etc that comes with your standard Rod Bearing and rod bolts upgrade.
Interior is good except steering wheel leather has some cracks and a very small leather discoloration on the driver door panel (discoloration is by the door handle area, about 2-3 inches, it is slight but noticeable).
Exterior is good as there is not a single ding on any of the metal parts. The bumpers do have some nicks. Hood has some very very small rock chip as well - cosmetically, the car looks great unless you are looking up close. The headlights does have some very little oxidation but as you all know, that is not a big deal and an easy fix.
CEL IS ON - code says all 4 o2 sensors and DMTL pump.
Missing tow hook cap from front bumper

The story:

Bought this car a couple years ago as a 2nd car for daily driving, added the pulley, then the CNT exhaust weeks into my ownership of it and loved it. Drove it like that for about a year or so then heard a ticking sound. In any case, I was in the process of moving, new job, new kid, etc - so I just let the car sit for a while and drove my other car. Long story short though, I freaked out and assumed it was the bearing issue so when I was finally getting to the car, I told my mechanic to open the bottom end first. When he got to the bearings, the bearings showed barely any wear and the crank was spotless, no scoring at all - meaning my ticking sound was not even close to the bearings. At that point, he admitted that he thought the was coming from the top end but since I was so adamant about the bearings, he agreed to open it up. Since we were already there and I didn't want to just close it up, I went ahead and had him do the bearing upgrade. At this point too - I added the Macht Schnell test pipes.

The ticking sound, he says could be two things, 1. A hydraulic lifter that has lost pressure or worst, a slightly sticking/burnt or very, very slightly bent valve. He does NOT think it is a bent valve though as he did a compression test and all cylinders on all banks were consistent around 155 or so. I have been driving it just fine to work since then and the ticking it would seem, comes and goes but it can get annoying at times.


Everything was good except I just bought a Porsche last week --- so this car is going.

My intention was to fix the car entirely because I wasn't planning on selling it but I couldn't pass up the deal on the Porsche.

So, here is what I propose.
As is, my car, with all the parts and oem parts included - $17500. This is the lowest price I will go as I still owe that much to the bank.

With the CEL lights fixed, stock cats back on (as the CEL for the O2 is probably caused by the MS track pipes) and maybe new o2 sensors if needed and new DMTL pump - $18500.

Once I get around to fixing the tick (maybe just a lifter, or valve replacement, or complete replacement of the head), then I will adjust the price then to maybe something around 21k.


You can post replies here but text/call is better. 714-600-7005. Name is Christian. I know you can't help it but please do NOT contact me if you plan on offering less than 17500. The price is not negotiable and is more than enough reasonable for this car, considering that the bearing have been upgraded to the best parts and the valvetrain issue is more than likely minor, I do feel comfortable that whoever buys this car and drive it around as is as a daily if they can stand the ticking sound.

Also, as always with posting cars for sale online... there are always those (which I don't understand why), use these cars for sale postings as a way to spend(waste) their time by leaving unnecessary comments when they are not EVEN anywhere close to buying a car. I truly don't understand these people so please don't be one of those. Find better ways to spend your time and please let others who are actually DOING the transaction do the talking. If you don't like what you see or have negative comments, please take it to another thread or start your own. Respectfully requesting this. Thanks.

Pics coming. Will edit this post as soon as I get them hosted. You can text me though and I will send you pics. Thank you!

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Last edited by alvinguy; 06-11-2017 at 03:27 PM..
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