Stubborn CS water spots

[nickl630]

Hey gents, I could use some insight into removing some water spots on my CS's hood (I've removed them from the rest of the car successfully)

When I picked up my CS it (like many others) had been sitting on the lot for quite some time, because of that it had gathered some decent water spots on the hood, roof, trunk etc from sitting outside in the hot Florida sun.

After doing what I thought was a good enough buff job, I applied my ceramic coat (huge PITA in the Florida heat I might add) I still noticed some water spots on the hood. I hit the hood again with compound with no luck. It seems like the clear-coat on the hood is MUCH harder than the clear on the rest of the car.

The water spots came off of the roof, deck-lid etc but the hood remains... I figured since its CF and its masked (not painted on the underside) it was probably painted in a different factory or area then put on the car when assembled.

Anyone else have this issue? Tips to remove the spots?

Im using a porter cable with yellow pads (hex logic, heavy cut) with Menzera Heavy Cut (https://www.menzerna.com/products/po...-compound-400/)

Thinking I might have to go rotary. Pics below

[N1rve]

If you put the ceramic coating after you noticed the water spots, you may have sealed it in and may need to wet sand the ceramic coating off since the coating is above the water spots.

[TMD29]

I would try using Sonax Cutmax or 3D ACA 500 with a wool cutting pad or a eurofiber 50/50 pad. Unfortunately, you will most likely need a finishing pad and polish after the cutting step. Apex detail has some great vids on youtube that might help you out.

[nickl630]

Originally Posted by TMD29

I would try using Sonax Cutmax or 3D ACA 500 with a wool cutting pad or a eurofiber 50/50 pad. Unfortunately, you will most likely need a finishing pad and polish after the cutting step. Apex detail has some great vids on youtube that might help you out.

Thanks im checking into Sonax now. I figured id have to go wool or rotray to possibly remove them. Can you get a velcro wool pad for a porter cable?

[Clark_Kent]

Assuming you will reapply the ceramic coating at some point, I suggest not applying it in extreme heat.

[nickl630]

Originally Posted by Clark_Kent

Assuming you will reapply the ceramic coating at some point, I suggest not applying it in extreme heat.

Absolutely. That was painful to do.

[TMD29]

Originally Posted by nickl630

Thanks im checking into Sonax now. I figured id have to go wool or rotray to possibly remove them. Can you get a velcro wool pad for a porter cable?

Yes, you can find hook and loop backing pads in wool, microfiber, Ero-fiber and foam. Just make sure the backing plate on the tool is sufficient for the size of the pad.
I'm not sure about the rotary. I haven't needed to use a rotary to correct paint for a long while since I've been just fine using a flex 3401 and/or a Rupes 15. Also I would never suggest anybody to even use a rotary until they have had experience using it on junk panels. Rotary polishers are not as forgiving as DA polishers and you could possibly do more harm to your clear than what you currently have.
If anything, the porter cable might be a little under powered, but I hear it's still a decent little tool and should get the job done. I think your issue is your pad choice and correction compound. Especially, if you have already put the ceramic coating over the water spots as mentioned earlier you need to be even more aggressive.

[noone]

I sprayed my like new 2004 BMW 530i back in 2004 with hard water from a hose and let it dry in the sun. Bad mistake. I got similar spots on the entire car I had to live with the entire time I owned the car. Still own and it still pisses me off to this day. I tried everything even wet sanding a small area of these spots and I felt it was etched too deeply to continue sanding so I left them and waxed the hell out of the car. You could only see the spots in artificial light at that certain angle but they were always there. Hopefully you don't have this and can lightly wet sand out what you have by hand.

[domino_z]

You just need a heavier compound and pad combo

Also given the hood is cfrp it will respond differently to the rest of the car, do smaller sections and shorter passes as it'll heat up quicker than metal, especially with an mf pad

I have the gts hood on my m3, I had to remove all the wool pad induced holograms from the body shop

The best combo I found was the lake country mf cutting pad with jescar compound. I then polished it with rupes yellow pad and yellow polish. It took me a solid half day to dial it in 100%, constantly having to swap bw 5", 3" and 1" pads given all the curves

Make sure you tape the edges of the hood, they are sharp edges and running an mf pad to edge of the panel is more aggressive than a foam pad

[nickl630]

Originally Posted by domino_z

You just need a heavier compound and pad combo

Also given the hood is cfrp it will respond differently to the rest of the car, do smaller sections and shorter passes as it'll heat up quicker than metal, especially with an mf pad

I have the gts hood on my m3, I had to remove all the wool pad induced holograms from the body shop

The best combo I found was the lake country mf cutting pad with jescar compound. I then polished it with rupes yellow pad and yellow polish. It took me a solid half day to dial it in 100%, constantly having to swap bw 5", 3" and 1" pads given all the curves

Make sure you tape the edges of the hood, they are sharp edges and running an mf pad to edge of the panel is more aggressive than a foam pad

Good to know thank you! ive got some good info to go off of here