Opti-Coat?

[MPFit]

Has anyone gotten the opti-coat treatment for their car? It claims to be a clear coat layer added onto the original clear coat permanently. It apparently gets good reviews and is said to last up to 5 years. It can only be done by select detailers and is pretty expensive so I was wondering what you guys thought about it?

[Reflections]

Having used it a couple times now it is quite effortless to use. The paint will feel a tad sticky and even when its cured its not slick. Opti-Coat is the only true coating (urethane-ish design). Its the only true permanent coating as it acts as a sacrificial layer of clear. The only thing that will remove it is compounding it off (even a light polish doesn't always remove it fully).

Before use you want to make sure there are no defects, oils, residues etc. I use a paint prepping solution (works better than alcohol) to prep the surface. Max 10CC on a full car like the 1 series.

Yes, it has a slight hardness to it, but will not protect from stupidity. Even with the coat proper paint maintenance is recommended.

[MPFit]

Awesome thanks!
I've read that waxing becomes moot with the coat, and the coat actually lessens the length of wax protection.
Would you say that a shampoo with carnuba wax in it would be enough for weekly maintenance?
Also I've read that sealants are no longer necessary and you should avoid polishing as it removes the coat (as you've stated)
I guess I'm still a little ignorant to it, I just got a new 1 series and think it'd be nice to have like new paint in 5 years- what would you reccommend for maintenance to a car that has had the opti-coat applied?

[Reflections]

Originally Posted by MPFit

Awesome thanks!
I've read that waxing becomes moot with the coat, and the coat actually lessens the length of wax protection.
Would you say that a shampoo with carnuba wax in it would be enough for weekly maintenance?
Also I've read that sealants are no longer necessary and you should avoid polishing as it removes the coat (as you've stated)
I guess I'm still a little ignorant to it, I just got a new 1 series and think it'd be nice to have like new paint in 5 years- what would you reccommend for maintenance to a car that has had the opti-coat applied?

By maintenance I mean a proper wash using the 2 bucket method to reduce the chance of swirls. Also I would use a spray wax from time to time just to help in case of hard water spotting. You might have overly high expectations, the hardness is similar to a normal clear coat and you still run the risk of scratches and swirls. I would use a very slick shampoo to help reduce swirls from washing. Over the counter you can get Meguiars Gold Class which in my experience was the best thing I found in terms of shampoos at walmart.

You can apply v2 by yourself which has a longer cure time which in turn helps out a novice as you can buff down the high spots. It's $60 at Detailed Image. Otherwise look at about $150-200 for a coat from a detailer.

[ken1137]

Originally Posted by Reflections

You can apply v2 by yourself which has a longer cure time which in turn helps out a novice as you can buff down the high spots. It's $60 at Detailed Image. Otherwise look at about $150-200 for a coat from a detailer.

Thanks for the info...I was trying to figure out where to buy it. I am still trying to figure out the physics involved...10cc's for the entire car? I have seen some vids on applying this coating but still very hard to believe. I am not certain if there are enough molecules in the droplet they recommend to use on a sponge, let alone in 10 cc's for the entire car. Sounds like a great product...but (?).

[Reflections]

Originally Posted by ken1137

Thanks for the info...I was trying to figure out where to buy it. I am still trying to figure out the physics involved...10cc's for the entire car? I have seen some vids on applying this coating but still very hard to believe. I am not certain if there are enough molecules in the droplet they recommend to use on a sponge, let alone in 10 cc's for the entire car. Sounds like a great product...but (?).

Basically its not a product you want to see going on. Put a tiny spray on the applicator and go to town. You apply this product by feel, and will immediately you will feel a difference between a treated vs non treated. Then look at the panel under the light and gently wipe down any streaks.

If you want to think about it in a physics perspective look at a paste wax, similarly you can do 40 cars with an 8oz jar of wax. 240ml/40= 6ml per coat on a car. I don't see why 10ml is all that shocking! A 1 series might take as little as 5ml, I've seen it done (well without wheels, plastic, and glass application).

10CC is 10ml, if you want I'll take a picture on how big the syringe actually is. Its way more than doctor grade

[ken1137]

Originally Posted by Reflections

Basically its not a product you want to see going on. Put a tiny spray on the applicator and go to town. You apply this product by feel, and will immediately you will feel a difference between a treated vs non treated. Then look at the panel under the light and gently wipe down any streaks.

If you want to think about it in a physics perspective look at a paste wax, similarly you can do 40 cars with an 8oz jar of wax. 240ml/40= 6ml per coat on a car. I don't see why 10ml is all that shocking! A 1 series might take as little as 5ml, I've seen it done (well without wheels, plastic, and glass application).

10CC is 10ml, if you want I'll take a picture on how big the syringe actually is. Its way more than doctor grade

Thanks...I work with chemicals and distributions systems so I am familiar with cc's, ml's, angstrom's, nanometers, etc. I am not familiar enough with detailing as you can tell from my posts. Just saw another opti coat review on a white 135i...looks very good. The applicator commented that black would be the most difficult for a beginner. That said, I will probably have to find a detailer that won't charge an arm and leg for this coating unless you want to come down to Chi-town for a Maxwell Street italian beef

[Reflections]

Originally Posted by ken1137

Thanks...I work with chemicals and distributions systems so I am familiar with cc's, ml's, angstrom's, nanometers, etc. I am not familiar enough with detailing as you can tell from my posts. Just saw another opti coat review on a white 135i...looks very good. The applicator commented that black would be the most difficult for a beginner. That said, I will probably have to find a detailer that won't charge an arm and leg for this coating unless you want to come down to Chi-town for a Maxwell Street italian beef

Bhahaha I'm actually heading out there Wednesday to family. I would care to say white would be the most difficult as you see less of what your doing. Black is more simple as you can see any hazing/streaks.

[Greg@DetailedImage]

The Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 Permanent Paint Coating works extremely well and as advertised. The first version was only to be used by pros because the application was so challenging. David G at Optimum revised the formula and made this version much easier to apply and it's now available to anyone. If you keep checking out our Ask a Pro Blog we should have an article and video up about it in the coming month. If you have any questions please let me know!

Greg @ DI

[MPFit]

I do have a question.
Say I did the 2.0 on my car: And as Reflections stated maitenance is required (Obviously). I wasn't "overrating" the coat as he mentioned- was just wondering what kind of maitenance would be best?
I read on Opti-Coat write ups that waxing/sealing doesn't do much since wax and sealants wont bind to the opti-"Coat" so to speak.
I assume a slick wash would be fine: Greg you mentioned the Dodo Juice with carnuba in it: Would that be fine? Sealants yes or no? What would you reccommend for someone with the Opticoat to do weekly/monthly/yearly?

[MuttGrunt]

Originally Posted by MPFit

I do have a question.
Say I did the 2.0 on my car: And as Reflections stated maitenance is required (Obviously). I wasn't "overrating" the coat as he mentioned- was just wondering what kind of maitenance would be best?
I read on Opti-Coat write ups that waxing/sealing doesn't do much since wax and sealants wont bind to the opti-"Coat" so to speak.
I assume a slick wash would be fine: Greg you mentioned the Dodo Juice with carnuba in it: Would that be fine? Sealants yes or no? What would you reccommend for someone with the Opticoat to do weekly/monthly/yearly?

Use whatever you want. The coating is rated to be hard and durable, but using a product that adds additional slickness should help to keep your ride cleaner longer, and to be even easier to clean with the next wash. I'm amused at the thought of people not wanting to use anything over Opti-Coat because it won't "bond." How strongly do you think sealants really bonded to your paint if they could be so easily removed with strong shampoo dilutions?

You can look at the coating as the ultimate wax if you'd like, but I'd recommend you treat your coated car just like any non-coated car. If you do that, you'll still notice a huge difference over time as your car will stay even cleaner longer, will clean off easier, and will acquire many less paint defects over time.

[TOGWT]

[I'm amused at the thought of people not wanting to use anything over Opti-Coat because it won't "bond." How strongly do you think sealants really bonded to your paint if they could be so easily removed with strong shampoo dilutions?]

A polymer sealant forms a molecular bond to the polyurethane paint, think of it like a chain, they are formulated to be detergent resistant, so harsh detergents don't break this bond they attack the chemicals of the polymer and weaken its links.

See also "Chemical Bonding of Polymers etc" - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...ml#post1452821

[MuttGrunt]

Originally Posted by TOGWT

A polymer sealant forms a molecular bond to the polyurethane paint, think of it like a chain, they are formulated to be detergent resistant, so harsh detergents don't break this bond they attack the chemicals of the polymer and weaken its links.

See also "Chemical Bonding of Polymers etc" - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...ml#post1452821

Of course, and the question still remains: how strong does anyone really think that bond is? When a strong dilution of the right soap or a spray of the right cleaner can strip your paint, it's apparent that the "bond" isn't something worth worrying about. A sealant over Opti-Coat might not last as long as that same sealant on bare paint, but the sealant doesn't just fall off directly and not stick at all.

[Greg@DetailedImage]

Originally Posted by MPFit

I do have a question.
Say I did the 2.0 on my car: And as Reflections stated maitenance is required (Obviously). I wasn't "overrating" the coat as he mentioned- was just wondering what kind of maitenance would be best?
I read on Opti-Coat write ups that waxing/sealing doesn't do much since wax and sealants wont bind to the opti-"Coat" so to speak.
I assume a slick wash would be fine: Greg you mentioned the Dodo Juice with carnuba in it: Would that be fine? Sealants yes or no? What would you reccommend for someone with the Opticoat to do weekly/monthly/yearly?

Maintain it just like you would any other car. Wash it with care so you don't add swirls and scratches in the top coating. If you want to use a quick detailer or anything on top of it for more shine you can do that as well. Hope this helps!

Greg @ DI

[TOGWT]

Originally Posted by MuttGrunt

Of course, and the question still remains: how strong does anyone really think that bond is? When a strong dilution of the right soap or a spray of the right cleaner can strip your paint, it's apparent that the "bond" isn't something worth worrying about. A sealant over Opti-Coat might not last as long as that same sealant on bare paint, but the sealant doesn't just fall off directly and not stick at all.

Polymer sealants are formulated to be detergent resistant, detergents chemically breakdown the polymers ( think of them like a solvent dispersing an oil) they don't affect the bond as such.

A polymer will only form a cross-linked bond with paint (polyurethane), this bond is formed on a molecular level by the polymer molecules bonding together, that's part of the reason why sealants cannot be layered.

[MPFit]

Hey Greg that does help.

TOGWT thanks for posting that info - I am a detailing newbie, and only read what the product description states (In this case OptiGuard/Coat 2.0 says that additional sealants and waxes will not adhere and may not be necessary.)

So, if I had the 2.0 coat or even the OptiGuard applied: I would wash with my usual DoDo Juice Sour Power, then would a sealant like Opti-Seal be the second step? Or should I just go straight to DoDo Red Tropical Spray as my detailer - and THEN the Opti-Seal? (DoDo Tropical spray says it will help sealant durability, which I'm not so worried about after the OptiGuard coat)
Again, these questions come from a complete newbie, as I read the directions and follow!

[MuttGrunt]

Originally Posted by MPFit

Hey Greg that does help.

TOGWT thanks for posting that info - I am a detailing newbie, and only read what the product description states (In this case OptiGuard/Coat 2.0 says that additional sealants and waxes will not adhere and may not be necessary.)

So, if I had the 2.0 coat or even the OptiGuard applied: I would wash with my usual DoDo Juice Sour Power, then would a sealant like Opti-Seal be the second step? Or should I just go straight to DoDo Red Tropical Spray as my detailer - and THEN the Opti-Seal? (DoDo Tropical spray says it will help sealant durability, which I'm not so worried about after the OptiGuard coat)
Again, these questions come from a complete newbie, as I read the directions and follow!

I'd recommend going right to one or the other - but not both. Apply more than one solvent based sealant at a time and you'll get a streaky mess and less durability.
Use one or the other after a wash if you choose.

[MPFit]

Thanks alot!
Hadn't realized the Red Tropical was a sealant as well, again I really appreciate the help