hdahman wroteFor a car without a dipstick, I measure how much oil came out, then put the same amount back in. My M2 is exactly 7 liters!I wonder how you guys fill up the right amount of oil without the dip stick?
do you put 9Q then run the idrive oil meas and then add 1/2 by 1/2 and check the system?
overfilling will be a disaster for sure, how you guys avoid that?
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how do you update the Idrive service history? can this be done via ISTA?
Or does anybody know?
dab1981 wroteAnd what about the amount of oil that the oil filter had within it?For a car without a dipstick, I measure how much oil came out, then put the same amount back in. My M2 is exactly 7 liters!
Ninefourteener wroteThe non "M" G05 X5's with the V8 does have an oil level dipstick.Our cars have dipsticks.
The F95 X5M S63 V8 doesn't.
I dread taking my cars in for service due to the many points you made and for bad experiences in the past. We only checked under the hood, and not underneath, when we picked it up at the dealer and didn't see any oil drips.
I've done some of my own oil changes years ago (yeah, I'm a woman
) I know there are a few things that could cause a leak.I checked under my car and see drips of oil along the skidplate. Since they don't remove it to do the oil change, how can they clean up any spilled oil that might get in there? (Does it require a torque wrench?)
I don't think my car has a dipstick. If it does, it's not obvious. I think mine has the N63B44T3 (My 2014 F15 didn't have a dipstick either). I ran an oil level check just in case, and it was fine. I'm taking it back in on Thursday morning. smh
MissVito wroteYour M50i should have a dipstick. It's not real obvious to see like many years ago, but it's near the oil fill cap. Has a black handle.
I don't think my car has a dipstick. If it does, it's not obvious. I think mine has the N63B44T3 (My 2014 F15 didn't have a dipstick either). I ran an oil level check just in case, and it was fine. I'm taking it back in on Thursday morning. smh
BobsM3Coupe wroteThe car measured full after adding 7 liters back in, so the amount in the filter was negligible. I'd assume it's less than a tenth of a liter.dab1981 wroteAnd what about the amount of oil that the oil filter had within it?For a car without a dipstick, I measure how much oil came out, then put the same amount back in. My M2 is exactly 7 liters!
I've been underneath enough cars in several decades that I can usually figure out the oil sump plug and oil filter, but it always helps to get a nudge in the right direction. So I slid under the X7 this morning. Drain plug and filter are located as the OP's photos show. Both are close enough to the skid plate to be reached without having to drop the plate (whew!).
First -- I always use ramps to elevate the car. Jacks and jack stands cannot be trusted. A set of Rhino Ramps will set you back about $50. If your life is worth less than this, continue using a jack.
Second -- There is a dipstick on this N63 engine. It's that unconventional flat top plug looking contraption right next to oil filler cap. Twist a bit and pull up and you'll find a dipstick and level gauge at its end. I'm sure BMW had a good reason for deviating from the conventional yellow finger ring pull that identifies most oil dipsticks.
Third -- Most of these cartridge type filter caps have a drain plug in them. The cap on my X7 has a Torx T55 plug to remove before unscrewing the entire cap. Usually, there's at least a pint of oil that needs to come out, and there's much less mess doing this first. I can't see the OP's cap clearly, but there appears to be a removable plug. BTW, this is what the small o-ring in the oil filter box is for.
Fourth -- my cap requires a 36mm socket to fit its hex head for removal (1-7/16" is close enough). No filter wrench is necessary as in the OP's procedure.
Fifth -- the oil sump plug on my X7 is a Torx T50. I won't bore everyone with the physics behind the T55 on the filter cap and the T50 on the drain plug.
Now that I have all the info I need to do an oil change, I can focus on selecting an oil. The OM says 0W-30 with BMW LL-01 approval, but it seems as if many owners are using 5W-30 or 0W-40 of various brands in the Euro spec variety, such as Valvoline, Castrol and Pennzoil. I have about 4500 miles to go to figure it out.
streborx wroteWhat oil did you end up going with? I'm close to my service interval as well.Just picked up a new '22 X7 M50i last week! While I have only 500 miles on it, I wanted to find out more about changing the oil and filter, when I came across this thread describing everything start to finish. Many thanks to the OP for providing this procedure.
I've been underneath enough cars in several decades that I can usually figure out the oil sump plug and oil filter, but it always helps to get a nudge in the right direction. So I slid under the X7 this morning. Drain plug and filter are located as the OP's photos show. Both are close enough to the skid plate to be reached without having to drop the plate (whew!).
First -- I always use ramps to elevate the car. Jacks and jack stands cannot be trusted. A set of Rhino Ramps will set you back about $50. If your life is worth less than this, continue using a jack.
Second -- There is a dipstick on this N63 engine. It's that unconventional flat top plug looking contraption right next to oil filler cap. Twist a bit and pull up and you'll find a dipstick and level gauge at its end. I'm sure BMW had a good reason for deviating from the conventional yellow finger ring pull that identifies most oil dipsticks.
Third -- Most of these cartridge type filter caps have a drain plug in them. The cap on my X7 has a Torx T55 plug to remove before unscrewing the entire cap. Usually, there's at least a pint of oil that needs to come out, and there's much less mess doing this first. I can't see the OP's cap clearly, but there appears to be a removable plug. BTW, this is what the small o-ring in the oil filter box is for.
Fourth -- my cap requires a 36mm socket to fit its hex head for removal (1-7/16" is close enough). No filter wrench is necessary as in the OP's procedure.
Fifth -- the oil sump plug on my X7 is a Torx T50. I won't bore everyone with the physics behind the T55 on the filter cap and the T50 on the drain plug.
Now that I have all the info I need to do an oil change, I can focus on selecting an oil. The OM says 0W-30 with BMW LL-01 approval, but it seems as if many owners are using 5W-30 or 0W-40 of various brands in the Euro spec variety, such as Valvoline, Castrol and Pennzoil. I have about 4500 miles to go to figure it out.
Though oil filter housing is first torqued to 40 Nm., loosen 180°, then tighten to 40 Nm.
FLYSWA wroteYes, I'm a long-time Amsoil user - I use it in 4 of my 5 cars (the Cayman takes a C40-spec oil that doesn't have an Amsoil equivalent). My oil change intervals were chosen a long time ago, and Blackstone oil analysis confirms that they are plenty conservative: for anything with a turbo, I replace the oil annually or every 5K miles (all my BMWs and Mini's fall into this category). For any naturally-aspirated engines, I replace the oil annually or ever 7.5K miles. Super-easy to keep track of the intervals if you follow this schedule from new.Anyone else use Amsoil? Royal purple is great too but I’ve used amsoil in my other vehicles for years. If so, do you keep the scheduled service interval? I was wondering with the 45e, since the engine runs less if you can extend the service life of oil.
Mjbmw1 wrote10,5 l (11.1 U.S. quarts) is the specified engine oil capacity. I just did my first oil/filter change and found that about 10,0 l (10.5 qts) results in max dipstick and display indications.Engine oil N63B44M3/N63B44T3
Capacity of engine oil
10,50 l
Engine oil: Technically suitable engine oils for BMW Group engines
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/g05-x5-xdrive50i-sav/repair-manuals/00-maintenance-general-note/00-00-maintenance/1VncdN4R3N
xxelmoxx wroteI own an MY23 M50i and live in Australia.What oil did you end up going with? I'm close to my service interval as well.
The manual on the iDrive says sae 0w-30 and Longlife-12 FE or 19.
I am not sure if LL-01 is still ok to keep the warranty.
Also the genuine oil filter model number has been updated to ‘11425A33C42’.
I am going to let a local mechanic to change the oil while I supply the parts and oil.
Do I need to buy an oil sump plug as well?
I thought I just buy 10.5 Liter of oil and the filter and let the mechanic do the job.
I drained the filter housing before removing the filter, but not a lot of oil came out, so when I removed the housing there was still a lot of oil left in there. Not a big deal, but a little messy if you're not ready for it. I'll probably skip the filter drain next time.
Is there enough room for filter drop without lifting the front on jacks or ramps.
Drain plug - usually less.
Since the filter is on the bottom, me thinks a smidge more clearance would be required
