I've been changing oil for 35 years, and I just bought a set of ramps about a year ago - can't believe I waited so long! It honestly makes changing the oil so easy. I got the RhinoRamps Max for like $80 and they've been great. I've used them for the X5, a 328, a Ford Flex and a Toyota Prius. They take up very little space so they stow away nicely when I'm not using them.
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I've been changing oil for 35 years, and I just bought a set of ramps about a year ago - can't believe I waited so long! It honestly makes changing the oil so easy. I got the RhinoRamps Max for like $80 and they've been great. I've used them for the X5, a 328, a Ford Flex and a Toyota Prius. They take up very little space so they stow away nicely when I'm not using them.
Does anyone have access to TIS and can confirm for the G05 N63, is it 40 or 25NM. I did the usual calibrated hand feel but grabbed my digital torque wrench just to see where I was at. It wasn't near 40 but I wasn't going to crank it down any further as it bottomed out on the crush washer and was -tight enough-
And now i get the torque for the the Filter and oil plug from the dealer
Both are 25NM also in Europa
Do you guys not have height adjustment in your cars? I just put it on the highest, put a jack on the chassis just in case, then slide underneath. There’s plenty of room to get a socket on the drain plug and align the oil pan.
In the event the air suspension gets a mind of its own, the jack is there to keep you safe. In any event, I can reach the drain without going underneath the car beyond the front lip.
Just fyi.
Btw, race ramps and rino ramps are great. Still, redundancy is the name of the game. Wheel chocks, a jack, and/or a jack stand would not be foolish.
25NM for is bul....t i find out that my Oil filter was not good tightened. i was loosing Oil. F..c Now i tightened it as i was possible. lets look. i have now a drive for 3000km i hope it will be ok
Can someone please tell me.
thank you.
ErickBMW wroteYes. You absolutely did.I own a X6 M50i, and I learned about Royal Purple through this thread (THANK YOU) I always took it to the dealer. now, I ordered 0w-40 as initially stated. Did I made the right choice?
Can someone please tell me.
thank you.
Royal Purple is the best brand of engine oil for your car... hands down. You cannot go wrong. No, you won't notice a difference "now"... but when your car has 100k miles on it... and still runs great, isn't gunked up, doesn't smoke out the tailpipe, etc.... you'll thank me.
Understand what the weights of the oil means:
1st number - thickness of the oil when hot. (Operating temperature)
2nd number - thickness of the oil when cold (Startup temperature)
(thats a very simplified explanation... but serves the overall purpose.)
"Zero" weight... means it is very thin when at operating temperature.... a lot of manufacturers use thinner oil, because it provides less resistance, fewer emissions, and better fuel economy.
(It's easier, and takes less energy, to swim fast in water, than it does to swim fast in pancake syrup)
"40 weight" refers to the thickness of the oil when it's cold (at startup). This is when your engine is subjected to the most amount of "metal on metal" abuse. A thicker oil will stick to metal surfaces better, and provide better protection at startup.
Other vehicles:
"0W20" is damn near as thin as water. How much protection do you really think it provides??? It lowers emissions.... thats why they use it.... but i wouldn't put that crap in anything i own.
"20W50"... is like pancake syrup... yea, it provides a great deal of protection.... bur robs power, and increases emissions. Great for air-coolled engines, V-twin motorcycle engines, and heavy equipment.
"SAE 50" - Also known as "Straight 50-weight"... means it is 50-weight hot or cold.... and provides the highest level of protection... but also produces the most resistance. Great on race engines, and deisel engines.
In short... a thinner oil (0W20) will free up a few more horsepower, and produce less emissions.... but provide very little metal-on-metal protection
A thicker oil (20W50) will rob a few horsepower, produce more emissions... provide significantly more metal-on-metal protection.
Hopefully that helps.
Yes.. you made the right decision.
Ninefourteener wroteUmm, I believe you meant to say 40 weight provides thicker oil for when the oil heats up.
"40 weight" refers to the thickness of the oil when it's cold (at startup). This is when your engine is subjected to the most amount of "metal on metal" abuse. A thicker oil will stick to metal surfaces better, and provide better protection at startup.
Ninefourteener wroteYes. You absolutely did.
Royal Purple is the best brand of engine oil for your car... hands down. You cannot go wrong. No, you won't notice a difference "now"... but when your car has 100k miles on it... and still runs great, isn't gunked up, doesn't smoke out the tailpipe, etc.... you'll thank me.
Understand what the weights of the oil means:
1st number - thickness of the oil when hot. (Operating temperature)
2nd number - thickness of the oil when cold (Startup temperature)
(thats a very simplified explanation... but serves the overall purpose.)
"Zero" weight... means it is very thin when at operating temperature.... a lot of manufacturers use thinner oil, because it provides less resistance, fewer emissions, and better fuel economy.
(It's easier, and takes less energy, to swim fast in water, than it does to swim fast in pancake syrup)
"40 weight" refers to the thickness of the oil when it's cold (at startup). This is when your engine is subjected to the most amount of "metal on metal" abuse. A thicker oil will stick to metal surfaces better, and provide better protection at startup.
Sorry but you are wrong.
Its exactly opposite
1st number before W - thickness of the oil when cold (Startup temperature).
2nd number - thickness of the oil when hot (Operating temperature).
Thickness is about combination of this two Numbers. Synthetic starts wit 5W under this is number.
The number before the "W" indicates how viscous the oil is at a temperature of -17.8 degrees Celsius.
The "W" stands for winter, not weight, which many people believe. The lower the number, the thinner the oil is at low temperatures. This is why 5W-30 motor oil is less viscous in cold temperatures than 10W-30 motor oil. An engine in cold climates requires a motor oil such as a 0W or 5W motor oil. On the other hand, a vehicle in Death Valley would need a motor oil with higher numbers before the W to keep the oil from becoming too thin.
The second number after the W indicates the oil viscosity of the oil measured at 100 degrees Celsius. This number represents the oil's resistance to high temperatures. For example, 10W-30 oil becomes very thin at higher temperatures compared to 10W-40.
i hope now its clear. Its easy also to search in google when you want more information
Perfe wroteNow you are correct. Your first post about this was incorrect.
Sorry but you are wrong.
Its exactly opposite
1st number before W - thickness of the oil when cold (Startup temperature).
2nd number - thickness of the oil when hot (Operating temperature).
m becoming too thin.
I have no more post on this
2023 x6 m50i
oil filter is 11-42-7-583-220
the SMALL O-Ring. does not fit the drain plug for the old filter housing...
I have looked at several After market versions. all the same..
would anyone know the correct P/N for the small Oring?
I'm new to this forum.
thank you
ugh
Remember to put the suspension into service mode if you have the air suspension: Simply hold the height adjust switch for 7+ seconds in either direction, otherwise you’ll have to clear a code at the end.
Didn’t take a pic, but before raising the car, pop the oil fill cap to allow the system to vent; it’ll drain better. Drain plug on mine took a 17mm socket:
And again, no pic, but that 0w20 oil comes out like water!
Oil filter took a 32mm socket. I had to go buy one…I had a 36mm from my old BMW, LoL.
…and it was a pain in the ass to reach back at the rear of the engine on the driver's side (US spec). Removing the engine cover helped, but still, a bit of a reach:
I prefer the Mann filters for my German cars. They come pre-assembled with the o-rings on the filter element. They also include the large o-ring for the filter housing, and a new crush washer for the drain plug.
I measured the volume as it went into my drain pan, and it was right at 6.5 qts, maybe a bit less, so I added 6, then fired it up and raised it back up while the engine was running to check for leaks.
All good, and the internal oil level read 1 “bar” low after it was warmed up, so I added another 1/2 quart, and it was right at the max reading. I know the electronic sensors in the oil pan are a lot more accurate, but I really miss a regular old dipstick.
I used my Bimmerlink OBD tool to reset the service interval, and then drove it around the block to reset the service mode suspension lockout…just have to get it faster than ~4 mph to get it to come out of service mode, but I like to check everything out with a short drive after every service.
