R3v1v3 wroteOne side with putting a little socket on time. Other side I pop off with a little wrench. The first one I did wrong and removed a screw to much. But like that I could pop it off easy..Does anyone have any know of an easy way to pop out the original links? I tried it with the heat gun, and also the "socket trick" but none of them worked and I ended up breaking the ball socket piece that connects the link to the car. Please help, as I'm almost tempted to not go through with it anymore. Thanks in advance!
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Air suspension = Uses air bags (not coil springs). Ride height is electronically set. Drop links (from this post) "trick" the computer/suspension into "thinking" the car is at normal height. Ride height is adjustable depending upon chosen drive mode.
Gtz1wickedest wroteI also used the RGsport Links, i disconnected the sensors, double checked my measurements but for some reason the passenger side is lower than the driver side. I took them off and checked measurements again, they were the same, put them back, reconnected and still passenger is lower than driver. I don't get it. What are your measurements ?I usedr33_RGSport links. Different measurements from the BBM links.
buggydrvr wroteMake sure that you measure at level ground.I also used the RGsport Links, i disconnected the sensors, double checked my measurements but for some reason the passenger side is lower than the driver side. I took them off and checked measurements again, they were the same, put them back, reconnected and still passenger is lower than driver. I don't get it. What are your measurements ?
This air suspension sensor is very sensitive, even 1mm unlevel ground will throw the height about 1/4".
r33_RGSport wroteMeasure what exactly? I'm measuring the link length before installing to make sure the fronts are the same and rears are the same on both sides. It is visibly noticeable when looking at the car from the back that the passenger side is lower.Make sure that you measure at level ground.
This air suspension sensor is very sensitive, even 1mm unlevel ground will throw the height about 1/4".
buggydrvr wroteMeasure the gap of the lowering.Measure what exactly? I'm measuring the link length before installing to make sure the fronts are the same and rears are the same on both sides. It is visibly noticeable when looking at the car from the back that the passenger side is lower.
Measure on level ground after driving the car.
r33_RGSport wroteHow far does it need to be driven and any particular speed i need to hit for things to engage/disengage or whatever? I'm confused as to how one side is lower when the link length is the same. It's like the driver side isn't adjusting or something...I'm measuring in my garage which is certainly level.Measure the gap of the lowering.
Measure on level ground after driving the car.
buggydrvr wroteHow far off is the measurement?How far does it need to be driven and any particular speed i need to hit for things to engage/disengage or whatever? I'm confused as to how one side is lower when the link length is the same. It's like the driver side isn't adjusting or something...I'm measuring in my garage which is certainly level.
Trust me, unless you really specifically tell the builder to level the ground, your garage ground will never be level.
Also, after sometime, ground movement will not make it level.
You just need to drive it around the block so the air suspension recalibrate itself. Normal speed.
r33_RGSport wroteWell unfortunately that didn't help and now i'm getting a chassis error even though previously i didn't and i've not messed with the connectors or links since. I'm at a loss as to what to do next but appreciate your tips.How far off is the measurement?
Trust me, unless you really specifically tell the builder to level the ground, your garage ground will never be level.
Also, after sometime, ground movement will not make it level.
You just need to drive it around the block so the air suspension recalibrate itself. Normal speed.
buggydrvr wroteCould be the link didn't seated properly.r33_RGSport wroteWell unfortunately that didn't help and now i'm getting a chassis error even though previously i didn't and i've not messed with the connectors or links since. I'm at a loss as to what to do next but appreciate your tips.How far off is the measurement?
Trust me, unless you really specifically tell the builder to level the ground, your garage ground will never be level.
Also, after sometime, ground movement will not make it level.
You just need to drive it around the block so the air suspension recalibrate itself. Normal speed.
Or your stock plastic ball is damaged. Hence I recommend to remove from the car to work on it.
r33_RGSport wroteThanks again, i figured it out, when i removed the original links, i removed a ball from one end, When i put it back i had the ball facing the wrong direction. Fixed it, all is well! Whew, that was driving me nuts! Thanks again. Note to everyone, make sure if you remove the ball from the stock link, when you put it back on the car, make sure is facing the right direction.Could be the link didn't seated properly.
Or your stock plastic ball is damaged. Hence I recommend to remove from the car to work on it.
r33_RGSport wrotehow is your camber wear after the lowering link? did you have to do camber correction or just left it as it?Could be the link didn't seated properly.
Or your stock plastic ball is damaged. Hence I recommend to remove from the car to work on it.
Ninefourteener wrotedo you have the link to where you buy the bbm link?Oh.. NOW this information gets shared.... lmao
Good info. I had no idea. I knew I was supposed to disconnect the electrical connections..... and I did.... just forgot the 2nd time. It all worked out though.
Good info for everyone.
otommytruongo wroteLeft it the way it is.how is your camber wear after the lowering link? did you have to do camber correction or just left it as it?
You can't correct camber on the front double wishbone system anyway.
I adjusted the links at 24 mm (front) and 16 mm (rear) per RGs recommendations. I just want a 20 mm drop, basically having loading height in Sport height.
When I finished the job the rear now is higher than the front. Not level. Not sure why. I started the job at +20 from normal height (to have a bit better clearance) and turn off the system. Also unplug each individual sensor as I worked on them. Everything is pluged in.
Any idea what could be wrong or do I have to wait/drive it and the system will reset/level itself?
jmartpr wroteDrive the car around the block.New here and to the X5 45e. Just did the install of the RG Sport lowering links. Very easy to do following RG instructions. I did had to remove the rear wheels in order to have good access to the area.
I adjusted the links at 24 mm (front) and 16 mm (rear) per RGs recommendations. I just want a 20 mm drop, basically having loading height in Sport height.
When I finished the job the rear now is higher than the front. Not level. Not sure why. I started the job at +20 from normal height (to have a bit better clearance) and turn off the system. Also unplug each individual sensor as I worked on them. Everything is pluged in.
Any idea what could be wrong or do I have to wait/drive it and the system will reset/level itself?
To let airbag adjust.
I bet you did the front first and the rear last.
So when you lift the car up, the bag is filled with air (vacuuming air due to the weight of suspension assembly).
Hard part was popping the ball out but heat from a lighter worked ok.
Also getting the length so precisely even was a challenge but seems to have worked. Will need to make sure they don't vibrate loose later.
ausfahrt wroteThanks for sharing, do you have any part numbers for the oem links? I need to take my car in for service related to a clunking / knocking sound on the front suspension. I don't want the dealer to see the RGSport links and try to blame them for the problem.I bought the RGSport lowering links. The install was pretty easy. Before the install I went ahead and bought 4 new OEM BMW links incase I broke it. So the fronts are the same but they changed the back OEM control rods. The bottom part is not plastic anymore. It’s a metal square that slides into the original location and screws in. The other end has a screw type like the BBM links. It’s easier to remove now rathe than pushing the piece in with a socket to remove and you don’t have to worry about breaking the other end, you just use a 10mm socket to remove it. Also unlike the front piece’s that you pop off with the heat gun, it looks like it’s metal rather than plastic.
