dombi wroteThanks,I wrote up a smaller guide on how to do phase adjustment.
https://www.diymobileaudio.com/posts/6349044/
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Mag_Ice_DL wrote@Mag_Ice_DLThanks,dombi! When you had a phase issue with your midrange door speakers, did you hear you have an issue or it's not audible? Do you no if there any any phase issues without impulse response measurements?
Yes, I did. But if you ask my wife, she will tell you the car sounds the same as before.

My system had several phase issues:
- between the Front L and R speakers: causing various dips in the 200-1000Hz region. This caused some stage issues that I could hear, but could not really fix.
- between Rear L and R speakers: also in the 200-1000Hz region... which kind of ruined the overall sound, stage.
- phase issues between Mids and Woofers: so that drums would not hit as clean, and hard in the music.
- phase alignment between Midbass and Sub... so I kept trying to increase the Sub level. But the issue was mainly in the 100-200Hz area.
After fixing phase (the best I could), I also gained some sound level. The system got louder.
The sound is much cleaner. Just simple vocals, someone singing, sounds so good.

And the bass is there.
I kept trying to compensate for the Bass, by increasing the Sub level. Or the Woofer level.
Whereas my issue was in the Midbass region + Midbass / Mids crossover.
I started out with a +30dB House curve (below 200Hz).
To get that nice, deep bass feel in the car.
But with things aligned, I am down at around +15/+18dB.
And it still sounds full and heavy.

Without phase, I kept trying to EQ, and re-EQ the system.
And I could not get the system to sound good.
I would imagine that different installs will have different levels of phase issues.
How much that effects the sound... depends on how big the issue is.
If there are things you are constantly battling with with the EQ, then you probably have phase problems.
What do you mean? When you do sweeps in REW for example, you get both data: IR and phase. So you can check both.Do you no if there any any phase issues without impulse response measurements?
IR is basically your time alignment.
Phase is how the timing is between the frequency ranges. At least the way I understand it.
[/QUOTE]
You already answered to my question earlier in your reply

It was about only seeing the issues on IR/FR or also hearing problematic areas by ear as well. Thanks for details.
Mag_Ice_DL wroteAre the Blams you have the Signature addition?I was experimented with XO's and shelf filters a lot. Always ended up with my initial feeling for my ears: less EQ -> better, more natural sound. Mids and highs seems to be more forgiving in this contexts. Thus, I ended up with some gap at around 150-160Hz.
I got to idea to try different door speakers. Was looking at Helix Ci3 and BLAM Relax. Due to various reasons ended up with BLAM Relax BM100. I was surprised that even raw (with no EQs at all) their sound was pleasing. These play louder (+5..+8dB) compared to HiFi stock ones. In the region of 150Hz these are +10dB. Attached is raw frequency response of the driver side mid + tweeter compared to stock ones.
m440i804 wroteNo, these are Relax series https://www.blam-audio.com/en/our-different-ranges/relax/. I am really pleased with how these sound.Are the Blams you have the Signature addition?
Mag_Ice_DL wroteWhat do you mean? When you do sweeps in REW for example, you get both data: IR and phase. So you can check both.
You already answered to my question earlier in your reply

It was about only seeing the issues on IR/FR or also hearing problematic areas by ear as well. Thanks for details.[/QUOTE]
I presume, you have iDrive7 with RAM as I do. I thought it might be some settings in RAM from stock what interfere with other things in DSP while we tune. I started to experiment with everything I can possible do. The best sound for my ears was when kept y EQ and XO, switched off TA completely and activated RealCenter under FX menu. It doesn't look like proper SQ setup, but that sounds so good so I have it now as a default settings.

Maybe you should try that too...
Mag_Ice_DL wrote@Mag_Ice_DLdombi, I saw your long going post at diyma forum https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threads/bmw-eqing-factory-harman-full-range-speakers-crossover-question-24-48db.466540/page-5?post_id=6350713&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-6350713
I presume, you have iDrive7 with RAM as I do. I thought it might be some settings in RAM from stock what interfere with other things in DSP while we tune. I started to experiment with everything I can possible do. The best sound for my ears was when kept y EQ and XO, switched off TA completely and activated RealCenter under FX menu. It doesn't look like proper SQ setup, but that sounds so good so I have it now as a default settings.
Maybe you should try that too...
Yes. iDrive 7 here.
My tune is complete. I am not touching it.

The last few post, at the end of my topic on DIYMA, is about some measurements that did not make much sense.
But those measurements were compensated for in my tune, so the end result aligned nicely.
I am also using RealCenter for the Center speaker.
dombi wroteAhh, well done@Mag_Ice_DL
Yes. iDrive 7 here.
My tune is complete. I am not touching it.
Theruleslawyer wroteDo any of these tunes have DLC enabled? Hifi bass at lower volumes is amped up by default. I find the bass too boomy at low volumes especially after my 12" shallow sub was installed.Here are a couple tunes I did with my 8dsp. All tuned with a calibrated mic.
Focal 0db hifi mids.afpx
Setup-
Front doors: Focal inside component- 0bd cross over
Front center:Focal inside
Rear doors: Focal inside
Underseat subs: hifi
Subwoofer: none
Type: Driver optimized
Focal 0db hifi mids JL 12tw3 sub.afpx
Setup-
Front doors: Focal inside component- 0bd cross over
Front center:Focal inside
Rear doors: Focal inside
Underseat subs: hifi
Subwoofer: JL 12tw3 in rear underfloor area in JL box.
Type: Driver optimized
I have a couple older ones kicking around that I did with the stock speakers, but I didn't have a mic for them, so the tune is pretty basic.
Greekstyle wroteDo you have a DSP? And if you do, did you any tuning to your system?Do any of these tunes have DLC enabled? Hifi bass at lower volumes is amped up by default. I find the bass too boomy at low volumes especially after my 12" shallow sub was installed.
Boomy bass can be caused by number of things. Most are tuning related.
Greekstyle wroteI haven't played with dlc yet. If you tweak it, please upload your results!Do any of these tunes have DLC enabled? Hifi bass at lower volumes is amped up by default. I find the bass too boomy at low volumes especially after my 12" shallow sub was installed.
dombi wroteI have Bimmertech amp (matchup8 bmw) and started with a tune they sent. With help of some members of G20 forum I modified to get better results. Only thing missing is to eliminate what I feel is higher than normal bass at lower volumes. As I increase volume the bass barely changes until I hit high volumes and then it hits harder. I have dedicated sub using sub out handling 80hz and lower. Underseat subs set up as midbass now. Sub signal comes off the underseat subs. (Virtually mapped in I/O)Do you have a DSP? And if you do, did you any tuning to your system?
Boomy bass can be caused by number of things. Most are tuning related.
Greekstyle wroteWithout seeing more data, it difficult to say anything...I have Bimmertech amp (matchup8 bmw) and started with a tune they sent. With help of some members of G20 forum I modified to get better results. Only thing missing is to eliminate what I feel is higher than normal bass at lower volumes. As I increase volume the bass barely changes until I hit high volumes and then it hits harder. I have dedicated sub using sub out handling 80hz and lower. Underseat subs set up as midbass now. Sub signal comes off the underseat subs. (Virtually mapped in I/O)
If I saw some Frequency response graphs, I could probably say more.
Do you have a Mic? Can you make measurements?
Other than that, maybe you can post your settings in the Match UP8.
How are the Woofers (underseats), and how is the Sub set up.
Maybe you can make a screenshot of both.
Or maybe you can post your .afpx settings file, so that we can look at it...
Edit: you can check
- if you have "Dynamic Bass Enhancement" enabled: FX menu -> Augmented Bass Processing
- if you have DLC enabled: IO menu -> upper right hand corner, click on the 3 vertical lines -> upper right hand corner, click on DLC -> check if it is enabled for Low frequencies.
dombi wroteI changed a few things to get me to a spot where I am pleased. First i copied the underseat sub and external subwoofer settings from a tune I got from another member. Their settings were great across many of the genres I listed to. There still was an issue with Bass a bit to high at lower volumes but i figured out that is was something I changed when i first got my X7 and had the stock system. I increased the audio volume in the Speed dependent audio settings all the way up. It basically boosted everything as I start accelerating. Turned it all the way down and then increased gain on all channels but subs to compensate.Without seeing more data, it difficult to say anything...
If I saw some Frequency response graphs, I could probably say more.
Do you have a Mic? Can you make measurements?
Other than that, maybe you can post your settings in the Match UP8.
How are the Woofers (underseats), and how is the Sub set up.
Maybe you can make a screenshot of both.
Or maybe you can post your .afpx settings file, so that we can look at it...
Edit: you can check
- if you have "Dynamic Bass Enhancement" enabled: FX menu -> Augmented Bass Processing
- if you have DLC enabled: IO menu -> upper right hand corner, click on the 3 vertical lines -> upper right hand corner, click on DLC -> check if it is enabled for Low frequencies.
theeclectic wroteFocals will sound great if tuned.Are the Focals significantly better than the Harmon Kardon that come with the G05 LCI?
But I think a lot can be done with the HKs too, if someone knows what they are doing.
theeclectic wroteBetter, probably. Significantly? ehhhhhh. The focal inside speakers aren't a high end speaker. Just better than typical OEM stuff. You'll get more out of the DSP and a real subwoofer. Do those first and think about the Focals if you're still not happy.Are the Focals significantly better than the Harmon Kardon that come with the G05 LCI?
Now to figure out the sub. Considering the Focal BombA BP20. Small integrated package that has solid reviews. I don't need to shake the rear view mirror. Just want some clean lower end and I carry a spare. Otherwise would use the box made to fit in that space.
Coercion Shaman wroteThat's a tiny sub. less than 8" I'd probably look for a downward facing box if space is a concern. At least you can throw stuff on top of it. Something like the kicker boxes-Now to figure out the sub. Considering the Focal BombA BP20. Small integrated package that has solid reviews. I don't need to shake the rear view mirror. Just want some clean lower end and I carry a spare. Otherwise would use the box made to fit in that space.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20651PTRT2/Kicker-51PTRTP12.html?tp=114
They also make spare tire subs that might fit with your spare
https://mm.jbl.com/car-subwoofers/JBL+BASSPRO+HUB.html
Theruleslawyer wroteThe Focal is smaller, but it is band pass. May try and then return if not pleased. Have looked at the down firing. Still a consideration.That's a tiny sub. less than 8" I'd probably look for a downward facing box if space is a concern. At least you can throw stuff on top of it. Something like the kicker boxes-
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20651PTRT2/Kicker-51PTRTP12.html?tp=114
They also make spare tire subs that might fit with your spare
https://mm.jbl.com/car-subwoofers/JBL+BASSPRO+HUB.html
The spare subs won't work because of the tool kit and jack sitting on top of the spare in the same space. If I have to move those out, I may as well have the sub out.
Theruleslawyer wroteThanks! Going to do exactly this!Better, probably. Significantly? ehhhhhh. The focal inside speakers aren't a high end speaker. Just better than typical OEM stuff. You'll get more out of the DSP and a real subwoofer. Do those first and think about the Focals if you're still not happy.